by aidasr » Sun May 04, 2008 9:02 pm
theres 2 gully's i've been down into with around 5 routes i liked.
The first gully, just down and to the left of the parking lot ( left wall of gully) has a nice face, good edges..maybe 5.10+. to the right of that is a nice ledge that goes up into some underclings, onto working your way up a big juggy flake...maybe around 5.8-5.9. To the right of that theres another face that looks like it'll go nicely..but the bottom is usually wet when the waves are very small..it looks like 5.9-5.10- In another gulley just to the north ( i think north, left if your facing the water) of the Fynnished area..its a nice crack that starts low down in the gulley and leans to the right.. mostly fingers and smearing for feet. To the left of that is another decent route with some crimps at the bottom that turn into slopes and goes up into a crack to top out in a sketchy mantle.
It looks like theres other stuff too, a lot of the climbalility depends on how happy the ocean is, or so i've found.
Im assuming these are cataloged somewhere but..am not sure where. Guidebook would be the place to start i guess.
If you want to head out there id be glad to show you these routes. Some will go on trad, i don't know if they have or haven't..but they're all a lot of fun and I'd be down to try and free some of them. Theres also some easy 5.6 ish warmup routes scattered about. I don't have a car, but have all the needed gear for the area and will always be happy to belay.