Sunnyside Beta

[Fred]

Does anyone have any beta for Pollux 5.3 G? Is it old school YDS or new generation soft YDS?

serious post begings here...

Jon C and I climbed a few of the trad lines tonight at Sunnyside. It was a good time but have a couple questions.

1. At the top of H-bomb do you trend left to the tree near Adam Smasher bolt anchor or head up right to finish on Nuclear Sausage Particle? If the exit was supposed to be straight up it didn't look clean and the tree would have been a bit small to belay. Also, all branches were still on the trunk which is not typical for most belay trees.

2. At the top of Lightning where the vertical crack ends, do you head straight up the face trending slightly right to gain good ledge with rap station just shy of the top of cliff? Originaly I thought this route went up a small vertical crack about 8' right and parallel of the offwidth near Thunder but I quickly found out there is no crack for protection.

3. At the top of Pollux it looks like you could go straight up to the tree or trend right around another crack system. The more direct line seems straight up the crack system to finish at tree but I know there is another bolted rap station if you went right. Perhaps this bolt station was originaly used for Superstar but then decided the top out was not worth the climb? In any event we went straight up to finish at tree. A fun route.

[Adam]

2 - yah after the vertical crack ends it heads up and right up that ramp to some more gear and the anchor. kinda thin slab moves on holds that feel like they're gonna break but i think they're actually pretty solid. fun route.

3 - yah pollux ends at the little tree. the anchor above superstar was the first one at the cliff and could be used to lower down and set up topropes on the routes below.

[Fred]

2) I wasn't seeing the gear so oppted for a hard right traverse to big ledge then up to another bolt anchor then traverse back left to Lightning anchor.. which probably proved to be more difficult. When we rapped off I could see good holds and small gear on the vertical face directly below the anchor. Actually looked better on the steep face directly below the anchor with positive holds than up the slabby face just left of anchor. Nice route but could us a good scrub hehe

[Adam]

yah the slab is kinda tough. more so just because you have to commit and immediately are a couple feet above your gear. but you just have to hold it together through a couple moves to good gear again.

definitely needs more cleaning, but i scrubbed that fawker enough already.

the other anchor you found is for 'Awe', and another further right for 'Smells like rain tastes like chicken', both of while i'll finish up bolting this spring sometime. both really good routes.