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cory wrote:Beta, as requested:
Start with a good fist jam and an edge for your left foot, smearing your right against the tuft of dried grass.
Crank with a bit of a lieback off the jam and reach up to the ledge. Be sure to grab the rock, not the gravel or shurb.
Mantle.
The middle section has two or three options; the left arete is coolest, but the pro is better and rock more solid in the dihedral. The face between the two gets the worst of both worlds. Mantle ledge if you go left or traverse left to ledge if you go right.
The top section you're really better off running out the marginal pro and going straight up, but if you start to brown in your bermudas, move a bit the right to walk up a gully slope or to find a placement and traverse back.
Top out the massive ledge and take a few high steps on broken slab to the large incut dirt pad. BRing a long cordelette to tie off the enormous tree to belay the second.
To descend walk horizontally to the left 10' then down the trail to base of climb.
A tripple set of BD cams in the # .5-2 range, or a couple blue/black tricams and #8-10 nuts and 3 hexes should just about do it.
Andrew wrote:
I only asked for Beta because alot of the low difficulty rating routes are choss or they are old-school grades.
Burley wrote:I'm sure if a route is a choss heap Fred would tell you in the guide... usually. The "G" should tell you there is some gear.
Fred wrote:
the guidebook, which I know you own Andrew, provides the accurate grade, adequacy of protection, quality of the route, and often sketch factor if required
Fred wrote:no. It's just left of the down solo scramble which I think is actually harder than Kit Kat.
Fred wrote:If a guy walks out on the paintball field with a pink dress on it's hard not to open fire...
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