New ice climbing spot

[STeveA]

We went to a spot that was new to me, and which I have not heard about. The ice was about 60' high with at least 12 routes, all about grade IV. It is upstream from the Gondola Point ferry about 1/2 mile on the Kingston side right on the river bank. The routes can be led or easily top roped from trees. Definately a worthwhile spot.

[Fred]

Steve:

is this the same cliff as the Gondola Point climbing area developed by Cory Goodman?

[STeveA]

No, that is downstream from the ferry.

[Stacey]

Could it be Moss Glen?

[Greg]

Nope, Moss Glen is also downstream from the ferry.

[STeveA]

We climbed 4 of the routes and they were all quite interesting. The cliff faces south so it is nice and warm, although it may suffer from this weeks warm weather. To get to the ice, cross the Gondola Point ferry (or walk across the river) then head to the right (as you get off the ferry going to the Peninsula). Walk along the river passing a cliff after about 1/2 Km. The ice is past this about 1/2 mile from the ferry. It is very visible being just in the trees about 30' from the shore. We climbed the yellow pillar and 3 other routes to the right. Once I get the pictures I will post them.

[Fred]

upstream downstream ... that's where I got confused. I was thinking upstream St-John river. my brain is fried. lol

Gondola Point climbing (West or Left when getting off the ferry)
New Ice Climbing (East or Right when getting off the ferry)

cool. Looking forward to checking it out.

What will you name the new spot?

[Joe]

How about "Land of Confusion"?

[martha]

That's the name of one of the bouldering areas near Halifax... 'LOC'

how would you have known that eh Joe?

[cory]

Good find, Steve. I don't recall any other cliffs out of the water during my exploration/development of GDP...This is an interesting development. Must you access it from the H2O (i.e. it's in someone's backyard)?
Is the ice forming over an actual cliff or is it a dirt/choss slope being held in place by freezing?

Cheers
C

[STeveA]

Some pics from the area. You could get to it by hiking down from Mount Misery Road although it is easier from the river bank. No one is near the area so I am not sure whose property it is on.

[STeveA]

A few more

[Fred]

holly cow! that looks rad!

[Stacey]

WOW
that is some awesome looking ice!

Great find Steve!

Can't wait to check it out!

Stace

[STeveA]

This is a link to the google map for the cliff.http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&ll=45.467595,-65.963802&spn=0.027569,0.05785&t=h&z=14&om=0&msid=105382818173594508236.00044567f832a4e54143f

[Richard Eh!]

Hey Steve, just wondering if you have named the area yet. Are we safe in assuming that the pillar to the left of the far right waterfall and the two pillars to the right of it have not been led previously. If this is the case than we didn't want to name the three routes we led with names that didn't fit with any theme you might have in mind.
Also , would it not be an easier access if we go left off the Cherry Point Rd. on the Mt. Misery W. Rd. and take the first left off of that to the shore area? Or is that road not open in winter?

[Fred]

Steve: I think you can access this with a much easier approach than the one shown from the ferry landing (i.e. waypoints). See where the road comes down from the north almost directly to the cliff and takes a 90 degree turn? This is the road that turns to lower shore road which takes you to Hampton Marsh climbing. See description in my guidebook.

[Joe]

Since it's at the base of Mt. Misery, I suggest we call it Mt. Misery (such a cool name!). And yes Fred. it's about 1 km shorter to walk from Perry Pt. (1.4km) on the Lower Norton Shore Rd than from the ferry (2.4km), but obviously it's a longer drive if you're from SJ or Quisp. You could also walk from Meehans Cove Beach, but it's 2.4 km too.

[Joe]

Mt Misery map

[Adam]

Since it's at the base of Mt. Misery, I suggest we call it Mt. Misery (such a cool name!). And yes Fred. it's about 1 km shorter to walk from Perry Pt. (1.4km) on the Lower Norton Shore Rd than from the ferry (2.4km), but obviously it's a longer drive if you're from SJ or Quisp. You could also walk from Meehans Cove Beach, but it's 2.4 km too.

Misery... i like it! are you miser-able? hehe

[Dee]

Hey Steve, just wondering if you have named the area yet. Are we safe in assuming that the pillar to the left of the far right waterfall and the two pillars to the right of it have not been led previously. If this is the case than we didn't want to name the three routes we led with names that didn't fit with any theme you might have in mind.
Also , would it not be an easier access if we go left off the Cherry Point Rd. on the Mt. Misery W. Rd. and take the first left off of that to the shore area? Or is that road not open in winter?

Hey Richard and Pat.
It seems to me that the few you led on the weekend are 'technically' not in and extremely short. Meaning not fully formed to the potential that they will be. Don't you think it would be a good idea to wait until they are formed and solid so that you can give them a true grade etc.? Just a thought. I don't normally post here and am not looking for heated debate over this. My intent is to bring forward the issue of rushing the leads on the new find. I think that you guys can/should still have them but just do them again before you rate them. They are going to change quite a bit since we seen them last. Actually they had changed considerably in one week according to Steve.

Dee )

[Richard Eh!]

Sounds okay to me...true, they may form bigger (or smaller) at some point, weather depending

[STeveA]

Mt Misery icefall sounds good for a name.

Perry Point looks like a good approach, certainly less walking, and the parking should be less of a problem. I only described it from the ferry because it was an easy landmark to describe.

The only climbs I had done were at the same area that Shawn, denise and I were at. Everything else is up for grabs.

[Ropeguy]

Greg and I walked the loop around the flow this afternoon to see what was the easier access.

If you enter mt misery road west( just off route 845 ) there is a house at the end of the road and im not sure if he cares about parking there, if you enter mt misery rd east you can drive to the end where the plow stops and walk in about .7k and make your way down the cliff(bushwacking) to the river. Thats what we did but is not the best way in. we entered off the mt misery road at 45d 28.414 / 065d 57.772 and had to find a way down the cliffs, it want real bad but its not my first choice.

There is a trail off mt misery rd west ,( 45deg 28.281 - 065deg 58.332) follow the trail and get on the river at 45d27.873 /065d58.223. the ice flow is located at 45d28.230 /065d57.646 , its a nice easy walk on a good snowmobile trail. The trail is well sheltered so if the weather is not so good or its really cold(like today) getting out of the wind for a bit isn't such bad thing.....

If you want my personal opinion ....go to the meehans cove beach located on the model farm road , and walk accross the river to the ice...its about 1 mile .

Cheers
Rick

[Climbing4life]

See where the road comes down from the north almost directly to the cliff and takes a 90 degree turn? This is the road that turns to lower shore road which takes you to Hampton Marsh climbing. See description in my guidebook.

would that road be good for a car do you think in the winter ? i know most of perry point is paved but does it turn to dirt down that far?

[Ropeguy]

i would park at the trail head on mt misery road west and walk in

[ifoggs]

Looking for Partners over March Break!

How is the KV river with the warm weather? If you approach the Mt Misery Ice from Meehan's Cove, can you access the anchors for top rope w/o lead climbing?