Cerebus

[Matt Peck]

Hey all, Just curious what everyone's take is on the climb Cerebus (no. 56) in the Amphitheatre of Cochrane Lane?

[motanb]

Some sorta funky route (aid?project?) that may have loose rock. Crappy perhaps? I dunno. I have vaguely gazed upon it from nearby routes not really knowing what to think.

I wonder if it will go free? I'll have to look more closely next time im in the theatre.

Thomas

[john]

It will go free the first bit comes out of the crumbly cave (its more solid than it looks), to an alcove; the second pitch is nice but is wet alot of the time. Pitch one can be avoided by a traverse from the Odin pitch 1 anchor.

Matt go ahead and try to drytool it if thats what you are asking, no one has been on it for a free attempt in a long time. It is steve's old project, I think, if you want to ask him about it.

[STeveA]

I am actually planning to bolt the route this winter since I would like to see it climbed. Feel free to have a go at it. It can also be started from a ramp to the left of the cave.

[Matt Peck]

Thanks Steve, Yeah I think I'd like to give it a go. Im planning on taking a run at some of the other "mixed" lines in welsford this winter, but I've been eyeing Cerebus in particular for months. I bought enough hardwear to equipt the first pitch, but I'll need to tr it a bit to see where I can put the gear so as to make it accessable for free climbing as well. There is a ledge about 40' up that would make a natural belay stance, and I think I might put the first belay here, and make the second pitch longer if the distances are correct. It just looks like the most logical place to divide the climb.

[Shawn B]

does any ice form on it?

[Stef]

Yup, I looked at this a few times. There are series of hard-looking daggers of ice that form-up some years. It will be a nice mixed line if it goes.

[chossmonkey]

The route sounds cool. Any chance that it will be ready to go around Christmas?

[Matt Peck]

Could be, given the sweet conditions so far, and if I can ever get ahold of the drill, ahem.

[Fred]

our reason exactly for changing the loan policy a while back

[chossmonkey]

Could be, given the sweet conditions so far, and if I can ever get ahold of the drill, ahem.

I could possibly bring mine if you want to wait that long. But is doesn't do very well in the cold.

[STeveA]

I have a drill that we can use.

Steve

[Adam]

Could be, given the sweet conditions so far, and if I can ever get ahold of the drill, ahem.

who does have the unb drill?

[chossmonkey]

So....

Did anyone bag it this winter?

[*Chris*]

I'm reviving this thread since I doubt my partner will...

Over the weekend Erick B. climbed this line from the ground up. In my opinion, it was an impressive lead. I've put up a few pics from the effort here. He's suggested a grade of A2+ / A3. He's also suggested updating the name to Orpheus.

As was speculated in the this post several years ago, this could make an impressive mixed climb. If anyone would like to give it an attempt this winter, I would very much like to shoot photos of it.

[Stacey]

NICE work Erick! way to go!