Ripping gear and decking

[chossmonkey]

I know most of you climb on better rock than we have around here, but I don't think this pertains as much to the rock type as the state of the rock that gear is being placed into, i.e. parallel sided cracks that have anything other than abrasive friction.

***Click here for my story about ripping gear and decking.***

[Fred]

holly cow man!! That is crazy. Glad to hear you are ok and even more convinced that climbing in Ontario sucks.

On another note... I seem to recal that you guys hadn't been able to pin point exactly what happened in Rebeca's fall? Is it possible something like this happened in her case too? my memory is terrible

Take care on the recovery.

cheers

[granite_grrl]

holly cow man!! That is crazy. Glad to hear you are ok and even more convinced that climbing in Ontario sucks.

On another note... I seem to recal that you guys hadn't been able to pin point exactly what happened in Rebeca's fall? Is it possible something like this happened in her case too? my memory is terrible

Take care on the recovery.

cheers

Ironically, the last thing I clipped with my fall had been a bolt (on a gear climb) and then ran it out to what was probobly the first place I could get solid gear.

It was a run out fall with a big ledge below. The problem comes in as to why I feel when I shouldn't have. That is something we'll never know, as between the trauma and the drugs that part of my memory has been erased.

Climbing in Ontario (at least southern Ontario) does suck. Though there are a few nice lines to be found if you're clipping bolts (assuming the bolts are good! )

[chossmonkey]

holly cow man!! That is crazy. Glad to hear you are ok and even more convinced that climbing in Ontario sucks.

On another note... I seem to recal that you guys hadn't been able to pin point exactly what happened in Rebeca's fall? Is it possible something like this happened in her case too? my memory is terrible

Take care on the recovery.

cheers

Oh, common Fred!!! It doesn't all suck. Where else in Canada do find roofs like this?




Honestly, what happened to me could happen to anyone plugging cams into a perfectly or near perfectly parallel crack. While I'm not 100% sure, I am fairly sure that the crack itself and what was in it had more to do with it than the rock it was in. They just didn't grab.

Thankfully talus is softer than a ledge. Bec only fell around 5 feet more than me, granted you can still build a lot of energy in five feet. I also landed on my feet and butt, where as she landed on her side. Given the pointy nature of the talus I'd be willing to bet a lot of energy was dissipated when my body started glancing off the rocks rather than hitting them flat on. It still could have been real bad.

[martha]

Man, glad you are okay. you two have had your share. Bad luck comes in threes... so perhaps you ought to steer clear of the ice this season....

[Fred]

You were using your friend's cams? Did you notice if they were properly lubed meaning there was no jerkiness when you pulled the trigger? Somtimes they stick slightly although it's very unlikely to happen on three cams at once. A minimum amount of outward force from the sping system is required to ensure there is contact before they actually start to cam.

[chossmonkey]

You were using your friend's cams? Did you notice if they were properly lubed meaning there was no jerkiness when you pulled the trigger? Somtimes they stick slightly although it's very unlikely to happen on three cams at once. A minimum amount of outward force from the sping system is required to ensure there is contact before they actually start to cam.

That's a good point. I guess I don't really remember them being to sticky while using them but it does seem like I did notice at least one on his rack earlier that was a little stickier than I thought was normal, but it didn't seem to terribly bad. I could see how in that situation not being 100% could effect how well the unit works.




And Martha, there will be no talk of bad luck. We were both extremely lucky not to be hurt worse.

[granite_grrl]

Man, glad you are okay. you two have had your share. Bad luck comes in threes... so perhaps you ought to steer clear of the ice this season....

Ah Cara, I've had my bad fall, Nathan has had his, now there's only one member left of the family left that could get hurt.....











Fortunately, he always lands on his feet!

[martha]

yes, cats do land on their feet.. unless you tie their tail between their legs.. so I've heard. so if you stay away from that terrible drunken party trick, the rest of your family should be fall free.

[Fred]

unless you tie their tail between their legs..

really? oh this is going to be good. I'm going home at lunch to try this.

[martha]

Poor Tia!!!!

[chossmonkey]

You were using your friend's cams? Did you notice if they were properly lubed meaning there was no jerkiness when you pulled the trigger? Somtimes they stick slightly although it's very unlikely to happen on three cams at once. A minimum amount of outward force from the sping system is required to ensure there is contact before they actually start to cam.

I took a look at the cams last night. Two of the three were a little sticky but not to bad. One, it would have been the second, was pretty sticky. Oddly the stickiest one had the biggest scrapes on the lobes. I'm not sure if they were from a previous fall or from mine. I didn't think to ask last night as I was in a bit of a hurry to get stuff done in the small amount of time I had. Our friend left this morning for the Red so it might be a while before I get an answer from him.