B&A Trip Report

[chameleon]

The bouldering at the top end of Paces Lake just gets bigger…..so big, we decided to use ropes. [Note to Scooter: this was a joke man, there is no bouldering up there…just a ruse to get you pebble wrestlers to read the post. Still confused…ask your better half, I mean your “Adventure Partner”, he’s older (note receding hairline) and wiser (note PhD)]

Here’s the low down on the classic, extended, boulder problems ticked this weekend:

Scrape and Pillage V2 – The new warm up. I’ve been obsessing about trying to climb faster after the Huber Bros. recent speed record on The Nose (3000’ in 2hrs. 45min. ). Unfortunately, after 5 minutes fiddling with my nuts (no comments, Stamp) at 15’ on the “warm-up” I’ve decided not to challenge their record.

April Cool – V0+ I’ve never been crazy about this route, but Rich is a big fan. It was pretty cool…….for October. [gong!!!!]

Emotional Vampires – V3 Still my vote for the best route (errr roped-boulder problem) on the crag (errr boulder). It was sew’d up! Werd. Super-fun.

Ghost Dance (the one right of Black Diamond)?? – V3 (V9 sit start). This one is never easy. Rich fought the pump proudly.

The Arches – V3 - It’s probably that I’ve turned into a big wuss but I had to back off at the roof due to an alarming number of broken blocks up there - nothin looked very solid and it looked a lot different than when I’ve been up there before. Steve-o, have you been on that one lately? Seriously, I think something’s not quite right there.

Black Diamond- V1 – The old standby. Gets better with age. Finally, by the end of the day I was starting to climb smooth!

We were hoping to get another pitch in but weren’t too disappointed that the rain came in heavy at the end. Thought about ascending Kelly’s classic at the right side, but then we came to our senses!!

Peace.
S

[The Mitt]

Eh you can't comment on that one till you have climbed it Although choss stars is more fitting in mho. However the great lord Punshon rather liked it.

M

[Stevo]

Nice bouldering session, now I know what a V3 is. I think you're just imagining those loose blocks man!

[chameleon]

Steve, V3 is the limit of human possibility - as near as I can figure.
You're probably right about my imagination (and implied wusi-ness), but compared to the 4 or 5 times I've been up that route, things definitely looked a little different. I'm sure that you'd have a better specific memory for the holds (as the FA scrubber, etc.). If you're up for it, maybe we should do a recon next weekend (me 2nding this time!!!).

Mitt, sadly I have experienced that route of yours (Chalk Stars [aka Choss Stars])!!! Actually, it's not bad. The first time I climbed it I was somewhat dismissive but the 2nd time I was appreciating being able to do a route without being completed gripped like most other routes there!!......It's easy to diss what you don't understand...kinda like dissing poor old Eagles Nest. As I've said before, that place gets a bad rap. Sure it's an urban junkyard in a quasi-natural state, but the I still say it's worth a visit. Evening Wall, Sea Gully, Big Mac Sport - these are all worthy climbs...probably 10 or 11 times better than Chalk Stars. How many people on this board have actually climbed them, I wonder?

S

[Stevo]

I'm the first to diss Eagles but I have to admit that Sea Gully is the best route around to take a total novice on and the Cave wall is not bad either.

[Scooter]

dude,

you're dead to me....

[The Mitt]

Your right that Eagles nest can be a fun day. I guess my first 2 years climbing I went there exclusively has turned me from going. By the way guillotine is a pretty cool short route.

Mitt

[chameleon]

dude,

you're dead to me....

That's a little harsh, dude!!?

[Scooter]

oh alright, I didn't really mean it
I wrote it with a smile

[chameleon]