Walton Glen rock climbing

[Dom]

Hey does anyone know how the rock is in Walton Glen? I went there about 3 years ago before I started climbing and I remember seeing cliffs. It reminded me of the canadian rockies but New-Brunswick version ha ha . I'm curious to see if some routes could be established there.

Thanks,

[Adam]

where is walton glen?

[Dom]

It's in the middle of the woods south Of sussex. It's about 15km from Shepody road on an old trail and right next to the Little Salmon River. Basically, it's very remote and that's why I'm interested to see if there is potential there.

It's actually a relatively popular( if you have a ski-doo) Ice climbing destination as there is a GARGANTUAN waterfall there.

[Climbing4life]

there is all kinds of crazy cliffs there , its real nice and its all naturally exposed rock. there is potenital but i dont know if you would be aloud to bolt anything due to it being in a national park i`m not sure though.
your could always just stick to Pro.

[Dom]

Nice pic dude! It is inspiring and I will for sure check it out. Thanks. I'll try toproping it to find the ''potential'' routes.

[Climbing4life]

here are some more pics
its is such a beautiful place.

[Thirty33]

Do you know if the rock is granite? Darrell Steel would have lots of info about the area.

[Climbing4life]

not too sure , haven`t been out there for about a year , so i dont remember , but there looked to be alot possible routes.
and i`ve been told the the waterfall there freezes completely , would be totally stellar for ice climbing.

[Andrew]

That looks similar to a set of cliffs TRoy/SurveyMiner was telling me about.

What's the best way to approach that place and does anyone have good directions?

Looks like its crumbly rock, prob. not granite, but I'd love to see it with mine-own-eyes

Andrew

[Greg]

The area is close to but not in Fundy National Park and it will be easily accessable in a couple of years when Phase 2 of the Fundy Trail Parkway is completed. I am pretty sure the rock is limestone. I have never gone there directly, just been to it as a detour while hiking the Fundy Footpath. Here are the gps coordinates for the waterfall: 45 29 41.5
65 18 3.4

[Murph]

Annie and I went up that detour when we hiked the Fundy Foot path for the first time 2 years ago. Rather than taking the access trail, we hiked up the gorge, scrambling up and over slimy/greasy boulders with our packs on. It was kind of sketchy realizing that we were already 2 days in and had not seen another sole. We were in area without cell phone reception and no chance of calling for help if we slipped and broke something, so we turned back.

[Shawn B]

The rock in Walton Glen/Little Salmon River is unfortunately not granite. I wish it was as there would be some amazing potential if it were better quality rock. The best quality would be the wall around Walton Glen falls. I do believe there is some potential for climbing. However, IMO it would take a tremendous amount of effort and be a serious undertaking both time and safety wise. Days of cleaning, tons of hardware (bolts), more gardening than a hobby farm, tons of crow baring and trundling, etc. The rock is very dirty. The tops of the cliffs are not the most safe places either. Sloping loose ground and lots of loose boulders. All that said, it is one of the most beautiful places in New Brunswick. Especially in winter when you can ski or snowshoe up the river. Stellar ice climbing all up and down both rivers. The area is definitely more suited to ice climbing when all the rock and dirt is frozen. Remember it is very remote in there. You are 20km from the nearest place (Adairs) that can help you. There may be spotty cell coverage if you get close to the coast high on a hill by using NS towers. You'd be looking at least a day for a rescue in there even with helicopter assistance. It is a pretty remote and serious place. As said before too, it is a beautiful spot for a hike in summer too if you don't mind walking up streams and hoping/climbing over large wet boulders. There is a rough hiking trail to the top and bottom of Walton Glen Falls. The falls itself is approx 350 feet high.

[Climbing4life]

when i went there about a year ago it was very easy to get to by jeep and my GF has taken a Saturn Ion up there but it was ruff going.but its about 25-30 min drive past poley mountain. Dirt roads the whole way out. I wish i had better directions and a very simple trail to hike down at least to the waterfall.good times.

[Joe]

I have directions and poor maps for Little Salmon River in my Ice Guide. See the Ice Climbing Links on this page. But like Shawn said, the rock is very fractured and not granite. I didn't see much potential for rock climbs there, but I'm sure if you work hard enough you might develop something. Have fun.

[surveyminer]

It is not in a national park so I am not sure on bolting on Crown land but no one is going to find you out there to fine you. LOL. I am out there all the time if anyone wants to go for a trip out that area my jeep is always willing.

[gwa]

I was stoked when I heard about Walton Glen for the first time on this board last week. I've got to see this ridiculous canyon. I want to believe there's something climbable in there. I'm gonna be home to Sussex over Thanksgiving weekend and am planning on going down there either Saturday or Sunday to check it out with some friends. Anyone is welcome to join in. Or pass on some suggestions on the best way to get there.

[surveyminer]

GWA.
Let me know I am always up for going out there. Very Beautiful and hopefully something can be found worth Climbing. Saturday would be better for me and going to be warmer. let me know. I also have room in my Jeep if anyone want to go.

[gwa]

Survey Miner,
sorry I didn't get back to you. I was planning on going down on saturday but some home renovations took up more time than I expected. I ended up just going biking on the bluffs near sussex corner. I'm still really interested in checking out Walton Glen with you though I won't be in the area again for a few weeks.

[martha]

I think you can be sure that if there was climbable rock in there that someone would have climbed it. However, like Shawn said, the ice in there is awesome (and the season is fast upon us!!), but epic to get to and climb. You are a long way from help if something ever happened.

[Fred]

bring on the highway!!!

[surveyminer]

You mean bring on a cell tower. I am not a huge fan of a highway through that area.

[Shawn B]

I'm hoping the new road they put in won't make it more difficult for us to access Walton Glen. As it is now if there is little snow we are able to drive in. The fundy parkway closes to traffic each year in sept and I'm guessing that will remain unchanged. Any road that crosses the current parkway has been gated. So access may actually be more difficult once the new road is complete. Anyone...Joe...know what is going to happen to the current logging roads we use?

[Joe]

The "Phase 2" section of the Fundy Parkway will run along newly constructed roads between Big Salmon River and the McCumber Brook Road. The McCumber Br Rd is the road we use to access Little Salmon River. The intersection will be about 0.5 km north of where we usually park to walk into Walton Glen. I'm not sure, but there may be a gate at that intersection, controlling traffic from entering the Parkway, but I'd expect no restrictions down to the McCumber Br/ Walton Glen area. Aside from the protected area around Little Salmon River, the rest is crown land, open to forestry activities, moose hunting, and climbing from the odd wackos. In summary, I really don't expect any change to our access to LSR.

[Corazon]

Yesterday I was there and made a ground-up first ascent, all tradition gear... 5.7.... 60 meters... no other sign of climbing activity anywhere. Lots of scary loose rock to remove on lead. Good cracks, beautiful exposure. Rappelled down off a tree and left a sling and carabineer, then placed a bolt with a hand drill for the second rappel.

Pics from the adventure in Walton Glen Gorge:https://www.facebook.com/corazon.richardson/media_set?set=a.10154586839540534.1073741968.906200533&type=1