This is a new crag on Paces Lake, situated below Neverland just above the lake and dubbed "The Hanging Gardens".
Paddle past the r end of Main Face following the shore for about 500 m until you reach a small face rising out of the water with large boulders above. The crag is hidden from view a few metres above the boulders.
Siren Song. 5.9+ (S.Punshon and S.Kelly, 23 Sept 07)
This is a wonderful little route, well worth seeking out on its own, or combining with a trip to Neverland. At the R end of the crag, the top of this route is a perfect overhanging dihedral visible from the lake.
Climb an awkward layback crack in a left facing corner, sometimes wet, to a halfway ledge on the right. Gain the ledge and climb the overhanging dihedral by a beautiful sequence of moves including a barn door layback off the R arete to finish. Excellent protection.
The cleaned wall left of Siren Song is a current project.
Cheers
Steve