J'ai vole ta blonde

[STeveA]

Peter and I led J'ai vole ta blonde on Saturday. I had forgotten how nice that route is. I think it is one of (if not the) the best jam cracks in Welsford. It is not long, but the hand/fist jams are solid, the rock is solid, and the pro is solid. If you have not tried it, I would highly recommend the route.

[*Chris*]

Got on this one last year... and I agree, very nice crack climb.

[motanb]

...agreed...if only it kept going...

[Fred]

funny thing... everyone talks about jamming this crack and I've always laybacked and face climbed. hehe Tradmaster??? not exactly...

[Dom]

funny thing... everyone talks about jamming this crack and I've always laybacked and face climbed. hehe Tradmaster??? not exactly...

I did the same, screw jamming it...ohh yeah and I did clip the last bolt from Teenage Arete because it was right there.

Awesome route!

[Stacey]

funny thing... everyone talks about jamming this crack and I've always laybacked and face climbed. hehe Tradmaster??? not exactly...

I did the same, screw jamming it...ohh yeah and I did clip the last bolt from Teenage Arete because it was right there.

Awesome route!

oh oh - - BOLT clipping by a CRACK!~?

[STeveA]

If you are clipping the bolt on Teenage Arete from J'ai vole ta blond then you are off route by quite a ways. I have climbed the route many times both as an aid climb and a free climb, and I could not reach the bolt to clip it, nor would I want to take that sort of swing. There is a great crack that takes hexes and friends.

[Dom]

If you are clipping the bolt on Teenage Arete from J'ai vole ta blond then you are off route by quite a ways. I have climbed the route many times both as an aid climb and a free climb, and I could not reach the bolt to clip it, nor would I want to take that sort of swing. There is a great crack that takes hexes and friends.

All the bolts are off route by quite a ways except the top one... Why would I have clipped it otherwise?

I'm not against it, it's a great to practice a trad climbing crux with sport protection

[*Chris*]

It's all just hearsay and conjecture until John tells us what the truth is... either that... or we wait for the judgement of the bolt committee.

[Shawn B]

All the bolts are off route by quite a ways except the top one... Why would I have clipped it otherwise?

For the same reason you laybacked and face climbed it instead of jamming

[Adam]

For the same reason you laybacked and face climbed it instead of jamming

this is prob why John could clip DDT on SEE...

[Dom]

All the bolts are off route by quite a ways except the top one... Why would I have clipped it otherwise?

For the same reason you laybacked and face climbed it instead of jamming

That's a valid point. I am a sport climber and can't resist the urge to clip bolts...hehe

Greg climbed it before me and didnt use the bolt. He even took a 15footer on one of the cams in the crack!

[Fred]

It's all just hearsay and conjecture until John tells us what the truth is... either that... or we wait for the judgement of the bolt committee.

hahaha You made my day Chris.

[Greg]

Greg climbed it before me and didnt use the bolt. He even took a 15footer on one of the cams in the crack!

Bolts - shmoltz, why clip a bolt when you have a perfect cam placement right in front of you.

[martha]

Greg climbed it before me and didnt use the bolt. He even took a 15footer on one of the cams in the crack!

Bolts - shmoltz, why clip a bolt when you have a perfect cam placement right in front of you.

That being said Greg.... the real question is *could* you have clipped it?

[STeveA]

The reason I mention this is because as the first ascentionist(?) for both routes, and being very aware of the bolting ethics for Welsford, it never entered my mind that the bolts would be clippable from J'ai Vole ta blonde. I have climbed both routes recently, and it still would not enter my mind to clip the bolts. Maybe the ethics need to be more defined to include a statement:

"bolts should not be clippable from a crack climb when climbed in the intended style, by a trad climber of an ability close to the agreed upon consensus grade of the route, in normal weather conditions, when wearing climbing shoes of a quality similar or lower to the standard of the time that the route was established, and with an ape index less than 2. This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."

This might clear up some confusion about the ethics regarding bolts.

[martha]

The reason I mention this is because as the first ascentionist(?) for both routes, and being very aware of the bolting ethics for Welsford, it never entered my mind that the bolts would be clippable from J'ai Vole ta blonde. I have climbed both routes recently, and it still would not enter my mind to clip the bolts. Maybe the ethics need to be more defined to include a statement:

"bolts should not be clippable from a crack climb when climbed in the intended style, by a trad climber of an ability close to the agreed upon consensus grade of the route, in normal weather conditions, when wearing climbing shoes of a quality similar or lower to the standard of the time that the route was established, and with an ape index less than 2. This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."

This might clear up some confusion about the ethics regarding bolts.

You Rock Steve. I love this.

exactly this about the bolts on FRed's new route.

[jdhohmann]

The reason I mention this is because as the first ascentionist(?) for both routes, and being very aware of the bolting ethics for Welsford, it never entered my mind that the bolts would be clippable from J'ai Vole ta blonde. I have climbed both routes recently, and it still would not enter my mind to clip the bolts. Maybe the ethics need to be more defined to include a statement:

"bolts should not be clippable from a crack climb when climbed in the intended style, by a trad climber of an ability close to the agreed upon consensus grade of the route, in normal weather conditions, when wearing climbing shoes of a quality similar or lower to the standard of the time that the route was established, and with an ape index less than 2. This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."

This might clear up some confusion about the ethics regarding bolts.

Wow, Say that twice real quick like!!!!!!

[Greg]

Greg climbed it before me and didnt use the bolt. He even took a 15footer on one of the cams in the crack!

Bolts - shmoltz, why clip a bolt when you have a perfect cam placement right in front of you.

That being said Greg.... the real question is *could* you have clipped it?

Of course but why would a trad climber clip a bolt?

[Greg]

"bolts should not be clippable from a crack climb when climbed in the intended style, by a trad climber of an ability close to the agreed upon consensus grade of the route, in normal weather conditions, when wearing climbing shoes of a quality similar or lower to the standard of the time that the route was established, and with an ape index less than 2. This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."

This is priceless.

[Dom]

This should not preclude a climber from using said bolts if their style of climbing, clothes, climbing ability, ape index, or equipment, make it preferable to make use of the bolts."

Just for the record I didnt wear sport climber spandex when I clipped the bolt.

hehe

[martha]

That being said Greg.... the real question is *could* you have clipped it?

Of course but why would a trad climber clip a bolt?

I agree with you...I'm a trad climber too, however, I'm just trying to make the point that the bolt is within reach of a trad route. I don't care one way or the other, but the point needs to be made for the sake of the DDT/SEE discussion.