Bolt In Sandy Cove (not Troute Cove)

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Bolt In Sandy Cove (not Troute Cove)

Postby Fred » Fri Oct 29, 2004 3:48 pm

I think I've raised this question before in the CNS forum but I'd like to make sure before doing anything.

I may be visiting in the St-Anne area sometime soon and I'd like to maybe put up a route or two in Sandy Cove. What is CNS's policy on new route development? I'd hate to cause problems on someone else's turff. Who owns the property and are we allowed to place bolts on this cliff?

thx
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Sandy Cove Cliff

Postby Peter » Mon Nov 01, 2004 11:32 am

It is privately owned. I know folks with land in the area, and have put an inquiry in for names.

Peter McVey
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Postby The Teth » Tue Nov 02, 2004 4:02 pm

You might want to read the Route Development Policy under Access on the Climb Nova Scotia Web page:

http://www.climbnovascotia.ca//

Generally if the route has not been lead and the route cannot be safely lead using traditional protection, and you think you can sport lead it, then you are fairly safe to bolt it. The first ascensionist dictates style. On this note, if trad leading a route would be suicidal, then you had better get it bolted before Steve P. finds it, or you might loose your chance.

Of course, if the land owner does not want you to bolt, then DON’T BOLT. If there are already bolted routes on the cliff and there has been no complaints, then you are probably safe.

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Postby Fred » Tue Nov 02, 2004 4:50 pm

There are currently (to my knowledge) no bolts on this cliff. A few lines were lead ground up on gear but the majority of the cliff appears featureless (ie no cracks etc.) since it is a basalt flow. There is the odd crack system here or there but I think most of them have been freed on gear. I think there is serious potential for some wicked nice lines on this cliff. When I visited the area a couple of years ago, I couldn't believe that it hadn't been developed.

It would be nice to know if the land owners are climber friendly and if they mind bolts (over the edge and out of sight of course). I'll stay tunned...

thx a bunch
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Guest » Thu Feb 03, 2005 9:18 am

Peter, is there any new developement on finding out who owns this property?

thx
Fred
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Postby martha » Thu Feb 03, 2005 11:01 am

I think that Lydon and Karen Raymond own that land. I went to High School with their daughter.

I can find out easily enough.
i'll let you know.
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Postby martha » Thu Feb 03, 2005 11:02 am

I meant 'Lyndon' not 'Lydon'
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Postby Fred » Thu Feb 03, 2005 11:55 am

Not Troute Cove. Sandy Cove.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby martha » Thu Feb 03, 2005 1:38 pm

oh right.

hmmm. well I can try to find out. I'll get the digby people on it.

HAHAHAHAHA
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Test

Postby Postman » Wed Mar 02, 2005 7:10 pm

Test
Geoff Postle
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Postby martha » Wed Mar 02, 2005 9:34 pm

by the way, I have the names of the people who own both the property in Sandy Cove and in Centreville (trout cove).

the sandy cove land is owned by a yank in Rhode Island. The other by a lady in Digby. I won't post her name here for privacy reasons, but if anyone needs to know they can contact me.

Cheerio.
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Sandy Cove

Postby peter » Thu Mar 03, 2005 10:52 pm

My Sandy Cove connections say two people own the cliff, but you have sprouted from that rocky soil, and I am only a visitor.
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Postby Fred » Fri Mar 04, 2005 9:06 am

so where does that put us for knowing if we can develop routes there this summer? :)

what is CNS's take?
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Sandy Cove

Postby peter » Fri Mar 04, 2005 3:28 pm

I have met a number of the locals, who view climbers as an interesting distraction from an otherwise normal day.

The owner I was told about is very advanced in age, too old now to even stay in his cabin east of the cliff.

The hike to the "lookoff" at the top of the cliff is an established tourist event for the Inn in town, without complaint.

I couldn't say you have owner permission, but no objection either.
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Postby Fred » Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:57 am

great!

I'll be checking this area out in the near future. So just thought I'd give my heads up that I would like to do some developing on that cliff.

cheers
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