FA Dye Direct

[john]

Dye Direct 40ft Chain Anchor

On Minky Wall, right end just left of the top rope route Dye Direct. Climb the face on small crimps just left of the chain anchors joining a horizontal crack, as for lady dye, and finish up a vertical crack to the chains. Needs bolts.

Fa Spring 2007 John Bowles

[Elvis]

Dye Direct 40ft Chain Anchor

On Minky Wall, right end just left of the top rope route Dye Direct. Climb the face on small crimps just left of the chain anchors joining a horizontal crack, as for lady dye, and finish up a vertical crack to the chains. Needs bolts.

Fa Spring 2007 John Bowles

Hello John, Not sure what you mean by Die Direct. The original route Lady Die climbs from the low pedestal/ledge at the far R. edge of Minkey wall. It starts in front of a horizontal crack that use to have a fix nut in it (now gone) it climbs directly up to the chains from here past some crimps and side pulls. When you get to the next break (witch lead up and left) you can follow it to the top. My original intention was for the route to keep going past this break and strait to the chains but it still eludes me. Did you climb past two bolt holes on your variation? These holes where hand drilled and probably not so good... I broke my drill doing this, and never got the chance to finish the job. I can't remember if the crack at the top takes gear. If so I guess this route could remain as a mix bolt and gear route. What do you think?
E.

[john]

Hey,

Yes, I saw the original line which connects to the horizontal crack at its right end and leads to the vertical crack just left of the anchor (or up the face if bolted). It is still quite clean and it is still clearly visible. I had gone over there to TR it and see if it was worth leading, rock quality wise. But when I through the TR down a direct line straight below where the horizontal crack becomes vertical looked fun, so I scrubbed it to see if it would go and it did. It was super dirty and still needs to be cleaned more but did go. Both lines could use 2-3 bolts at the bottom then the crack protects fine. I just don't really care to bolt things, so I left it for now. It should be bolted really, as it would add another alternative route to minkey, at a bit harder grade than whats there. Its an open project, so have at it if you like. I don't think bolting both versions is appropriate, but I do not care which is done. Neat route. Are you still around or out west?

john