Rusty Bolts

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Rusty Bolts

Postby Fred » Sat Aug 11, 2007 8:31 pm

I've been working on a lot of the older routes in Welsford lately and I'm starting to notice a large amount of VERY rusty bolts. Does anyone else feel like some of these are maybe due for replacement? Your thoughts?

Here's a short list of badly rusted bolts that I think need attention:

Joint Venture
Sticky Fingers
Perfect
Trouble with Lichen
Feathers
Rock Opera anchor
Telefunken

I think that some of these routes are not that old and are perfect examples of why it's crucial to use stainless steel hardware. There shouldn't be any excuse these days to use anything but stainless.
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Re: Rusty Bolts

Postby Fred » Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:09 pm

Steel Your Face
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Re: Rusty Bolts

Postby Adam » Mon Aug 13, 2007 7:10 am

flight of the valkyries anchor.
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Re: Rusty Bolts

Postby martha » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:23 am

I have no problem paying for route development as that is a personal choice of a climber to develop. However, route safey years after an FAA should be a community issue.

Perhaps the Rock and Ice club would have some funds for bolt replacement so that it doesn't have to come from our own pockets.
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Re: Rusty Bolts

Postby *Chris* » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:36 am

martha wrote:I have no problem paying for route development as that is a personal choice of a climber to develop. However, route safey years after an FAA should be a community issue.

Perhaps the Rock and Ice club would have some funds for bolt replacement so that it doesn't have to come from our own pockets.


Seconded!
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Re: Rusty Bolts

Postby Fred » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:38 am

I'd be glad to help out with muscle but it's an expensive task to take on. Would NBCC SJ and NBCC SA be interested in helping out? Gagetown club too?
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Re: Rusty Bolts

Postby STeveA » Mon Aug 13, 2007 12:05 pm

NBCC SJ receives no money from the college, and we charge $1 a night to climb. We manage to make enough money to replace our ropes but that is it. I am sure that the climbers from SJ would be interested in helping to replace old bolts but unfortunately our club has no money.
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Re: Rusty Bolts

Postby chossmonkey » Mon Aug 13, 2007 12:50 pm

Have you approached MEC about helping out with the new hardware?
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Re: Rusty Bolts

Postby Ken P » Mon Aug 13, 2007 2:54 pm

I am not a route developer - but I have enjoyed the routes in Welsford for the last number of years, Especially "Sunnyside" this year. I have no problem dropping a little cash for repairs or future route development.
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Re: Rusty Bolts

Postby martha » Mon Aug 13, 2007 3:54 pm

chossmonkey wrote:Have you approached MEC about helping out with the new hardware?


That is certainly an option. I would be willing to put a proposal together for them if I can get an accurate measure of how many bolts and rap stations we need.

We got a substantial grant from MEC 4 or 5 years ago when we did the trail remediation on the hike into Welsford. Seems to me that grant review time is in January though so we have some time.
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