new route: "Comrades in Destiny" 5.7 G Simpson Wall

[motanb]

Just wanted everyone to know of the new route Cory Richardson and myself cleaned and completed on the simpson wall. It starst just to the left of the 5.11 Bowles had climbed (which now has a bolt). You'll see an obvious cleaned section:this is the route. Climb the nice low angly cracks for 60 ft leading into a tree ledge system. One can either stop here for a belay or continue from here on some of the most gorgeous granite I've climbed on in welsford. So, from the tree ledge follow the obvious cracks/ jugs 60 ft to the top. A nice flat ledge with belaya tree that has tat and biners is the finish.
This climb is wonderful! Providing excellent pro, fun moves on super rock (especially the 2nd section after the tree ledge). I'm sure that anyone will agree. This is an excellent climb to introduce new climbers and for new leaders looking for a "safe" and fun route to hone their lead skills.
Its called" "Comrades in Destiny" 5.7 G FFA Thomas Anderson, Cory Richardson May. 2007

[Shawn B]

Sorry Tom...I believe this was done by myself and Steve the summer when we did all the rest. It was led ground up onsight, dig and excavate for pro, feet skidding on lichen and moss (very fun I must say). I graded it 5.8 at the time but it was super dirty. I didn't notice if Fred had this area all listed in his new book. So it starts just left of the 11 that John led (which btw I believe you got first clean tr on) in the green slimy mossy part, goes up to two side by side hand cracks to a bushy dirty slopey ledge and then I went right of the dirty ledge up to a big tree on a ledge where you can overlook lower dawn wall. I remember it being super nice but so dirty I didn't have days to invest to clean it. I think I named it Springfield. If it is the same line it will be nice to have it clean as it is very good. If not the same line, sorry.

[Fred]

Shawn,

when I went through your descriptions for Simpson Wall, it appeared as though Springfield was more to the left but again it was a bit difficult for me to determine based on the description. Tom's route goes way right almost over to Sheet of Glass.

[motanb]

hey guys,

Just for the record, since there has been some history with the area, i actually climbed this identical route (what is now "Comrades in Destiny") during the summer of 1997 with Mike Hawkes. We climbed ground-up/on-sight and left it at that. On this very same day I scoped out the line "The Crush" and attemted it on-sight with no success eventually returning several years later to get the ffa; well, the same is true with Comrades except that I gave it a sturdy scrubbing revealing its beauty this time around.
So, I don't know it Shawn and Steve climbed this very route before then- If so, that is fine- all the same it is fun and a good addition for the lane.

Thomas

[Fred]

I checked the line out again today and it is the same route.

Tom,
I think you guys put the muscle into this route and rightfully you should have the honnors. Simpson wall was re-claimed a number of years ago under this premise that much effort had been put into cleaning it although most lines had already been freed.