The Nose Butress

[*Chris*]

I looked at Steve A's Welsford archive site today for the first time and came across a topo which peaked my curiosity. It is apparently from the first edition guidebook for N.B. In it, several prominent features of the cochrane lane landscape go by different (albeit obvious) names. Cheekbone corner is a good example. I did not know that it was previously referred to as 'the Nose Buttress'. A few others are also obvious.

Now I know that some feel that an FFA of an existing line gives them the right to give it a new name but I'd say that renaming an entire formation/area is something different altogether. So how did this come about? Was this a case of a gradual change in preference of the general community as it's members changed or is there a more interesting storey behind the fate of the Nose Buttress?

Topo from Steve A's site.

cbell_sketch.jpg (65.23 KiB) Viewed 2320 times

[STeveA]

I think this has been a gradual change over the years, and reflects the increase in routes and climbers. You will notice that The Cirque has been replaced by Burrough's Wall. Originally the farthest climb over by Gollum's Cave area was The Ejaculator, however there are a couple of routes on the face to the right of it and it was given its own name. The climbs of The Cirque have basically fallen into obscurity.

The L-shape used to mean everything from what is now Pyramid Wall over to Snakepeel. However as climbs were added, each little area recieved its own name, Joe's Garage, Simpson Wall, Dawn Wall etc.

The Nose butress used to consist of Cheekbone Corner, Snot and Sinus. However once again the number of routes has grown and the areas received unique names.

I believe some of this change was evolution, and some was simply because new climbers were probably not aware of the old names. However, maybe it was actually a conspiracy. Maybe things like the mispelling of Pyramid (Pyramad) Wall were done on purpose with a mysterious alterior motive!!!!

[martha]

I suspect that it was a gradual change that came about by people calling the area 'Cheekbone corner' after the route.

Perhaps it was a "I'm going to do 'cheekbone corner' today".. and then, "I'm going to Cheekbone corner today"

[martha]

However, maybe it was actually a conspiracy. Maybe things like the mispelling of Pyramid (Pyramad) Wall were done on purpose with a mysterious alterior motive!!!!

That could simply be that many climbers can't spell!

[*Chris*]

Ok... I thought that was the case. It's interesting that as the area was subdivided into smaller faces and features that some of the original names were lost altogether. Thanks for the history lesson.

[Fred]

"Snakepeel" was originaly called "Momentary Lapse of Grace"
"Pharaoh Fawcet" was originaly called "Gastrocolic Reflex" (spell?)
"Upper Tier" was originaly called "Pete and Steve's Most Excellent Sport Climbing Wall"

Seveveral routes in Welsford have been cleaned, climbed, named and even bolted not knowing that the climb had already been done. Record keeping over the years has been less than perfect for many obvious reasons.

[STeveA]

I still think it is more likely a giant conspiracy!!!!!

[Fred]

I agree Steve. Some countries get renamed this way you know...

[martha]

I agree Steve. Some countries get renamed this way you know...

oh lord.....this coming from the most paranoid person I know!!!!! Don't edge him on Steve!!! really!!!!

[Fred]

Hey Steve... I was checking out some of the old reference material on your site and came accross a list of recommended routes. One that caught my curriosity was "Cantilever 5.4". Do you recall what this route is?

[STeveA]

That is at Chamcook Mountain which I believe is now called Greenlaw. I will look up the description and post it to see if you can recognise the route. It has been over 20 years since I was last there.