Welsford Wet Today

[Fred]

Welsford was pretty WET today. The fog never lifted and cliff was soaking when we got there. Right side of Joe's was ok and The Attic was a bit damp off the start but dry above.

Got on "Poche". I recalled this route being very difficult and at the time I felt the grade was way off. After climbing it again today I think it's 5.11b but no harder. A tough onsight though. So the original grade of 5.11a is justified I think.

On the hike back out I noticed someone added a bolt to "I wouldn't Rather be Anywhere Else" on Simpson Wall.

[martha]

Yup, Welsford was very wet today, and it was raining when we left. Unless it is REALLY sunny tomorrow I wouldn't bother heading out until lunch-ish. (I say that..but we'll be out fairly early- hehe)

I agree about Poche. probably an 11b compared to other routes of similar grade in the area.

The routes on the Attic are all very nice. It is a shame they don't get a bit more traffic to wear out the moss and crumbly bits.

[STeveA]

PJ and I played on the Attic the other week. We climbed the first part of Poche, and I would give it a 5.11c. We had never tried it before, so our grade is based on a first time with no prior knowledge. However we did not get past the 3rd bolt since the runout to the 4th was more than we wanted. I notice in the guide it is a mixed route. This may be where pro is meant to go.

[martha]

Yes, I was thinking I wanted to lead it until I saw that runout. The moves aren't hard at that point, but very sustained and you are pumped from the bottom section.

Fred was saying he might think it a 5.11c as well when we discussed it last night. The onsight would be tough, but depending if it is your style of climbing or not. I don't find it to be that hard but it is just my type of climbing.

The top is very similar to Joint Venture, but a bit harder. I think that the optional gear is at the top though.

Perhaps the 4th bolt could be removed and 2 put in its place to make it a bit more friendly. (hehe...look at me wanting to retro bolt!... nevermind me. i'm just a pansy on lead)

The only good thing about a fall at that point is that you wouldn't deck. it would be a whipper though!

[Fred]

I wouldn't argue 5.11c. It's a very seequency route. Onsight would be very impressive and a YDS grade should be bassed on onsight. It's a bit of a heart pumper at the 4th bolt but I got a good shake in before heading up to it and it wasn't too bad. The pump factor makes it a bit scary. The mixed piece is for the crack near the top I tink. But now that you say that you have me thinking if there could have been a slot for a piece between the third and fourth bolt. I always assumed the piece went in the same crack as finish for Joint Venture.

p.s.
Steve,
we climbed Anubis yesterday. Fun moves.