Stoners Acadia trip report

[Stevo]

Two and a half days of brilliant trad climbing with blue sky and sunshine. No moss, no bugs! Don't know why I waited so long to go there. Peter, myself and top stonerette Sandrine switched leads.
These routes were all great fun:

Precipice South
Gunklandia 5.7, Birch Ade 5.9, Old Town 5.7, Chitlin Corner 5.7.

South Bubble
Slab 5.7, Gargoyle 5.8, Moraviana, 5.5.

Otter cliff
Razor Crack 5.8, Open Book 5.7

Pictures to follow

Steve

[Fred]

Acadia is where it's at!!!

next time check out

Recollections of Pacifica
Return To Forever
Green Mountain Breakdown

Not to be missed.

[granite_grrl]

Acadia in Maine? How far is that from Halifax? Its a place that I'd love to check out, but its a little far away compared to other places in the NE for me.

[sand]

Gunklandia, Gargoyle and Razor Flake were my favorites.
Acadia National park is by Bar Harbor, about 7 hrs from Halifax

[peter]

The weather was spectacular, the company excellent, the beer very good, and the rock quite decent. The latter was comparable to a mix of Welsford, the Gunks, and First Face, in terms of texture and routes. Like in the Gunks, the grades are about .2 lower than comparable NS routes, in my humble opinion. Or maybe I am just sour after backing off a 5.7, despite being one of the undisputed "Kings of the 5.7". Thanks, Sandrine, for the photos. The Stoners will have to roll again, before the Summer/Fall is gone!

[Stevo]

Pictures just added to the Stoners web page!

http://www.novascotiatradclimbing.com/Stoners.htm

Cheers
Steve

[Andrew]

That's cool guys. I wish I was climbing with you. I was in Acadia Park Monday and Tuesday (18-19th June) with my girlfriend. We visited various spots and were even to the Precipice climbing area so I could show her where I've climbed before. We ran into a trio of climbers from New York who said they were Climbing Guides. I was jelous, i wanted to climb.

Cheers.

[martha]

I was jelous, i wanted to climb.

Cheers.

why didn't you?


And agreed, Bar Harbour is stellar. So Peter... what 5.7 made you a choir boy? tell me!!! details!

[Nate]

Sounds like a cool trip guys. Acadia is a really enjoyable area. I really like the rock and the routes there. I really liked the connection of southern fried chicken into some other route around there with a dehedral finish at the top of the main wall of the Precipice. Really cool second and fourth pitches, face trad climbing, steep dehedral exit, run out slabbery, gross hanging belay in a chossy corner, oh man that thing has the works!

Nate

[STeveA]

Bar Harbor has some really nice rock. A good addition to a trip there is a stop at Big Chick in Clifton. There is free camping just down the road, and it puts you about 1 1/2hr closer to home for the return trip.

Steve

[peter]

So Peter... what 5.7 made you a choir boy? tell me!!! details!

It was more of a determined whimper than a full-on soprano solo. It was the not-so-hard finger crack on Old Town, about half way up on lead. I had no problem as a second, so I put it down to TCMS (temporary couilles malfunction syndrome).

[martha]

There are some awkward moves and trusting smears on that first pitch. Just gives you a reason to return soon!!