NEW ROPE decision down to TWO ropes, help me decide!

[Andrew]

I currently have:

Mammut Galaxy 10.0mm 70m SuperDry age ~5yrs, sheath intact, no falls

I prefer a narrow diameter and a mid-stiffness feel to the rope. I also like to get a Dry Finish as I will use it in wet or snowy conditions from time to time. I've decided to go 60m this time as I dont' need the extra 10m length.

My two choices, unless someone has a better idea:

(1) Mammut Galaxy 10.0mm 60m Superdry Duodess (Orange/blue) 185$
(2) Petzl Zephyr 10.3mm 60m Dry Trio-Safe - non-duodess (Blue) ~185$


I read a review on the Petzl Zephyr and they described the feel of the rope to that of the Mammut Galaxy, which I like. I like the color of the Petzl, it's all blue with the trio-safe markers (middle and 6m from each end). I've never had duodess and not found it much use over having a marker at the centre, so that's no big deal. The galaxy says it is orange and blue, which I find to be unattractive for me.

Any thoughts? They both seem similar.

Andrew

[chossmonkey]

Orange and blue is super sexy!


How are you going to be using the rope? If you are going to be leading on gear or otherwise still not falling I'd go with the skinnier one. But if you will be hanging on it or TRing a lot I'd go with the extra beef.

I find the bi-color is nice when sport climbing as I always switch the ends after each go and it makes it easy to remember which end you are using and which one your partner is. I also find marked on middle marks to wear off really quick.

[granitoid]

I bought a 60 m Mammut Galaxy last summer (orange/blue). My friend AJ was able to get the same rope from MEC in green and blue to avoid confusion. It is my first duodess rope and will definitely get another.

Both of us have noted that the ropes don't seem to have aged that well, with what seems like a lot of fraying of the sheath. I definitely did more climbing last year than usual, so it might just be the extra miles.

I would also say that the rope is a little stiffer than previous ropes I've owned, which can be good or bad, depending on your preference. AJ thinks it is too heavy, but he has little girl arms.

[Andrew]

Could you take a nice photo of the Galaxy in Orange/blue for me and post it or PM it to me?

Andrew.

I bought a 60 m Mammut Galaxy last summer (orange/blue). My friend AJ was able to get the same rope from MEC in green and blue to avoid confusion. It is my first duodess rope and will definitely get another.

Both of us have noted that the ropes don't seem to have aged that well, with what seems like a lot of fraying of the sheath. I definitely did more climbing last year than usual, so it might just be the extra miles.

I would also say that the rope is a little stiffer than previous ropes I've owned, which can be good or bad, depending on your preference. AJ thinks it is too heavy, but he has little girl arms.

[granite_grrl]

I bought a 60 m Mammut Galaxy last summer (orange/blue). My friend AJ was able to get the same rope from MEC in green and blue to avoid confusion. It is my first duodess rope and will definitely get another.

Both of us have noted that the ropes don't seem to have aged that well, with what seems like a lot of fraying of the sheath. I definitely did more climbing last year than usual, so it might just be the extra miles.

I would also say that the rope is a little stiffer than previous ropes I've owned, which can be good or bad, depending on your preference. AJ thinks it is too heavy, but he has little girl arms.

I wish I remember which Mammut rope it was that I bought a couple years ago from MEC. I was looking for a 10mm, enjoyed my last Mammut so picked up another. Got it home and when I opened it and looked at the Mammut tag it was a 10.2mm instead of a 10mm. Minimal use, but the sheath is frayed a lot. It has also seems to have fattened up quite a bit, and is a lot heavier than I like.

I'm not seeing on the MEC website now, but it was the one that came with the free rope bag a couple of years ago (and the rope bag sucks btw).

[Fred]

Andrew,

you should really be buying a rope based on your needs not the color it comes in. Dynamic load, weight, stretch, length, duodess are all far more important. Then you live with the color.

As for the Mammut Galaxy... I am amazed to hear someone say they like the feel of this rope. To me it's like an old hemp cable.

I'd strongly consider the Beal, Edelrid and Maxim ropes Andrew. The Petzel ropes seem to be way over priced.

[Richard Eh!]

The Mammut Galaxies do get terrible fuzzy and consequently heavy when wet or snowy or icy after a year or so, but the Mammut Flash 10.5 Duodess Dry (at $210) is an excellent rope that stands up very well over the years and is definitely my favourite. Mine has seen four years of winter and summer use and is still in really good shape and not the least fuzzy. But, then, it always travels in my rope bag and gets a light shampoo once a year.

[*Chris*]

... and gets a light shampoo once a year

I also recommend giving your hair a light shampoo once a year. As for ropes... the petzl does seem expensive.

[Adam]

The Mammut Galaxies do get terrible fuzzy and consequently heavy when wet or snowy or icy after a year or so, but the Mammut Flash 10.5 Duodess Dry (at $210) is an excellent rope that stands up very well over the years and is definitely my favourite. Mine has seen four years of winter and summer use and is still in really good shape and not the least fuzzy. But, then, it always travels in my rope bag and gets a light shampoo once a year.

my flash is SUPER fat after 4 years of use (haven't led outdoors on it for a couple years, just toproping/rapping/cleaning etc)...

but definitely a tough rope.

[granitoid]

No can do on the photo for at least a week, as the rope is in Calgary and I am flying to Halifax this aft.

[Shawn B]

2nd what Richard said. Galaxy = bad rope. Flash = good (although it is rather stout at 10.5 but is a great lasting workhorse). Duodess worth every penny. I have a Beal Flyer 10.2 which I like as well although it doesn't come in duodess. Haven't played with the new Petzl ropes yet so don't know how they handle and since they are new no one knows how they will last. Although I think it is their ropes that the sheath makes up 1/3rd of the thickness of the rope so it should last well. I find they are pricey too. Any particular reason you want a skinnier rope? If no, you can't go wrong with the Flash 10.5 duodess.

[Richard Eh!]

Yeah Chris, a little pricey, but then, everything about my climbing "hangs" on my rope (pardon the pun) so iI think it's definitely worth it.
I wouldn't buy a Lombourghini and put it on CTC tires either....

[Matt Peck]

Andrew, man, Seriously. Save the dry rope for winter. It'll be almost no good to you if you use it on rock. Also, Mammut cords suck. Possible exception being the flash. The sheath fuzzes and wears out super quick. I second fred's statement about disregarding the color. I'd run a pink polkadot line if it was a good cord. The petzl ropes are like all gear european- sexy and expensive. Stick it to em by buying a cheaper cord. They do look nice though. screw the triosafe marking. I made my own with five minutes and a sharpie, and it damn sure didn't cost me that much. Duodess is great. Don't get a 10mm or less if you are planning to do ANY topping on it. Sub 10.3 lines are fast, and wear out too quickly if not used for leading. I've had a eldrid livewire for 2 or three ropes now, and it's been a bomber cord for all purpose use. Little heavy but super tough, and a really good hand.

[granite_grrl]

So this weekend I got to use one of those Petzl ropes, trad climbing at the Gunks. It was a ~9.8mm 70m. Nice feel to it, at least I liked it. But it didn't feel like it had too much strech (and I didn't do any falling on it), so I checked out the specs this morning. Its impact force was a little high, but still lower than something like the Flash (I couldn't find a rope comparison chart either....wah!!!). Its listed elongation was also more than than some ropes, even though it didn't feel like it.

This was a new rope so I can't comment on how well it'll last, but I did enjoy using it. If it stands up to extend use and abuse then I would really consider getting one.

[Andrew]

I couldn't resist...

I ran Pirelli Winter and All Season tires on my old 91 Golf Coupe. Best thing you could do for it aside from a suspension upgrade.

Any car will run better with high quality tires and any rock climbing system will be safer with a higher quality rope at the core, as long as the climbers are doing their jobs correctly

Yeah Chris, a little pricey, but then, everything about my climbing "hangs" on my rope (pardon the pun) so iI think it's definitely worth it.
I wouldn't buy a Lombourghini and put it on CTC tires either....

[mathieu]

I second fred's statement about disregarding the color. I'd run a pink polkadot line if it was a good cord.

Hmmm, now that I think about it, I do have a pink rope with purple polkadot on it.

[dcentral]

I second fred's statement about disregarding the color. I'd run a pink polkadot line if it was a good cord.

Hmmm, now that I think about it, I do have a pink rope with purple polkadot on it.

Srsly though. What's the point in doing it if you don't look good doing it

[dcentral]

I was looking at the petzl ropes this weekend. The guy in the shop said he climbed on the rope and said it slide through the gear really well.

For rope that has the same diameter/specs, the petzls it feels thinner

[Andrew]

I plan on getting the Petzl. I have no use for Duodess, but the trio-safe markers would be perfect for me.

I wish MEC.ca didn't have them on B/O.

[Stan]

Review on Petzl Zephyr 10.3:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Ge ... e_588.html

[Andrew]

Everything they are saying about the Zephr is what I'm looking for in a rope. Hopefully I can order it soon.

Andrew

[mathieu]

Everything they are saying about the Zephr is what I'm looking for in a rope. Hopefully I can order it soon.

Andrew

I hope so too

[Fred]

bag

[Andrew]

Rope's in stock now and ordered. Hopefully I'll have somewhere to climb by the time it arrives

[martha]

Rope's in stock now and ordered. Hopefully I'll have somewhere to climb by the time it arrives

There are more places around than welsford to climb at. St. Andrews is awesome, Kamouraska is a short 5 hours from you. Clifton, Bar Harbour and many other places Stateside are only 3 hours away!!!!

You have LOTS of places to climb with your new rope.

[granite_grrl]

Clifton, Bar Harbour and many other places Stateside are only 3 hours away!!!!

Really? And here I was thinking that I was doing pretty good with places like the Gunks only 6 hours away.