Yankee climber looking for areas to climb

[munky]

Hey my northern brothers and sisters, I'm planning road trip this summer for roughly 2 weeks from Washington DC (my hometown) to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Quebec. I know that I'll be heading to Cathedral in New Hampshire for a few days and spend a few days at Dover Island in Halifax. My question is where else should I go? I would really like to plug some gear, preferably on something big. Are there any traditional areas? If so, how big? Any info helping me plan this trip would be great. Ideally, I'd like to hit 3 or 4 areas in the 2 weeks to get a sampling for later trips. Also, is it realistic to make it from Washington, DC to Halifax, keeping in mind I'll be at North Conway for 3 days, in 2 weeks and still have time to climb and explore other areas?

Munky

[granite_grrl]

Hey munky!

I dug out my NS guide book and some photos (Dover, couple bouldering spots around Hali, even a couple bad shots of Welsford in NB too). I'll bring it all to the NRG with me this weekend.

As an idea of distance and time, it takes about 12 hours to drive from near Boston to near Halifax (my parent's to my aunt's place near Boston). Halifax is kinda an out of the way place, which keeps crowds away, but doesn't make a really quick trip. There are places in NB that are much closer.

[martha]

If you want to plug gear, Welsford is on your way to Nova Scotia. it is near Fredericton NB. 300 plus granite mostly trad routes. stellar climbing.

the new guidebook will be out within a few weeks and it has all the climbing in NB in it. Let us know when you get close and we can maybe show you around a bit.

[Shawn B]

Unless you really like bouldering, I'd pass on Halifax (nice city though). If you do, it is the place to go. If you like trad climbing, I'd recommend Acadia Nat'l Park (Bar Harbour) and Welsford, NB. Clifton, ME is also worth a day stop on your way as you pass right by it. Sport climbing but there are some cool routes there. It is approx a 6.5 hour drive from Conway to Welsford. Welsford to Bar Harbour is about 4.

[mathieu]

Size wise, you won't find anything big but the quality and relative quietness really makes up for it. Acadia and Welsford has 1 to 2 pitch, never been to Cliffton but probably not more than 3 pitches.

[munky]

Thanks alot of everyone. It seems that between Cathedral and Whitehorse in New Hampshire, Welsford in New Brunswick, and Dover Island in Nova Scotia I should be pretty much set. What is the camping situation like at Welsford and Dover Island. Can you camp right at the crag and on the beach?

[Fred]

Camping in Welsford is at the back of the Farmer's field near the trail head. It's free but there are no services and no camp fires allowed.

Camping at Dover is not really on the beach since all sides of the island are rock outcrops but there is a somewhat inland beach of coarse gravely sand where you can pitch your tent. It's a great spot. Again, camping is free but no services. You can however have camp fires at Dover.

[The Mitt]

Halifax Climbing is not that bad, just the really good climbs are pretty spread out. The bouldering far and away overshadow the roped stuff. There are some very good routes in Nova Scotia. If you wanna find them let me know.

Mitt

[mathieu]

If you are going to Halifax, definatly check out Sorrows End. Its a nice 20 m wall with excellent gear climbs in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. Its worth it just for the scenery. Ask someone for directions since I heard the access has changed significantly in the last few years.
Have a good trip

[granite_grrl]

Munky, Missed you at the New. I was hoping you'd track down one of the few cars with Ontario licence plates.

I'm also planning a weekend or two at the Gunks in June if you'll be around.

Rebecca