Gunks Again

[*Chris*]

So...

I've distilled an older... and somewhat hijacked thread on Gunks beta down to a list of recurring recommended routes:

High E 5.6
Madame G's 5.4
Horseman 5.5
Andrew 5.4
Gelsa 5.4
Hawk 5.5
Maria 5.6
Shockley's Ceiling 5.6
Arrow 5.8
Ant's Line 5.9
CCK 5.7
Bonnies Roof 5.8+
Something Interesting 5.7
Son of Easy O 5.8
Beginners Delight 5.3
Frog's Head 5.6
Directissma 5.9
The Dangler 5.10a

Any obvious misses or burried treasures? Also... all Gunks-goers should sacrifice their best livestock to the gods of the rains. This looks sketchy but I'm still hopefull.

[martha]

Three Pines 5.3 is a nice line and the top of the first pitch puts you at the ledge to get a good look at the 'Dangler' which may or may not make you soil your pants at the thought.

It also gives you the option, if it isn't busy.... to top rope 'Something Interesting 5.7' (HARD 5.7) if you want. (unless you lead it of course) which is a stellar route. One of my Gunks Favorites. You would have to lower from the top though as it is a full pitch route.

High E is nice and a so called 'classic' but I wasn't awestruck with it. I'd do it again just to get the lead in though.

Be aware, the grades are hard... harder than Welsford.

Bring lots of long runners. rope Drag is a B!tch in the Gunks. feels like you are pulling up a corpse!

[martha]

Laurel 5.7 G and Rhododendron 5.6 are also both nice lines. short and sweet and make nice warms ups. They sit to the right of Horsemen and are usually busy.

Ken's Crack 5.7 is also one that you can't pass up. it is near the start of the trail too. it is a gorgeous line that you wish went on and on for pitches at a time.

[Fred]

Disneyland 5.5? 5.6?

[Holly Reid]

Also... all Gunks-goers should sacrifice their best livestock to the gods of the rains. This looks sketchy but I'm still hopefull.

You must have started your sacrifices already eh...

[granite_grrl]

Skip High E and go right for Directisma. You get 3 awesone pitches (easily done in one or two if you have revolvers) and you still get the money pitch for High E.

At the Nears get on Inverted Layback, and if you're a strong leader Fat City amd Nurses Aid.

My favorites that I've lead:
Ants Line
Directissma
Son of Easy O
Horseman
Something Interesteing

Other routes that I'd love to get on:
RoseLand (Nears, should double check the name)
Modern Times

In other notes, I've been there after mad downpours, bad enough that Ken's Crack was a huge water fall. We got on Shockly's and thile there were a few damp places on the first pitch, the crux was no problem. Things can dry pretty fast and some things stay dryer than others. Also, I've done Madam G's stringing the first two pitches together. Something about that day (same damp day, the wasps were on the rock, gear on the seconds pitch was small) but it freaked me out! (even more than regular freaking out on Gunks routes).

If you get William's guide (which I would highly recomend, you can get an older William's guide for the Nears too at Rock and Snow) then his quality rating has thus far been right on for me. All in all I can't say enough good stuff about this guide book, it is maybe the best guide I have ever used for any climbing area.

Gah, I hope I can get down there in the next couple of weeks too....mmmmm, Gunks.

[thicks]

Have you returned yet chris? I am in for 1 goat and two sheep so your weather should be pristine.

[martha]

Hell ya, Roseland at the Nears is awesome!! tough lead though, sustained and the feet are pretty slippy!

[*Chris*]

Haven't gone yet Tyler. Plan is to depart Thurs. pm and stay till next Monday PM. Weather looks too close to call right now but your offerings are appriciated.

Thanks others for the beta... now just think sunny thoughts!

[granite_grrl]

Hell ya, Roseland at the Nears is awesome!! tough lead though, sustained and the feet are pretty slippy!

Shhhh! Don't tell me that! I should have gotten on it a couple of years ago, but it wasn't in the cards that day. Don't know when I'll be back in mental shape to start leading stuff like that again.

I already have Horseman picked out as my first gear lead since my accident once I feel up to it. The Gunks should be a pretty good place to get my feet back under me with a bunch of easy leads.