Granite crag near(ish) Antigonish

[MarkR]

No really...
I noticed this crag last winter, explored it with a view to developing it, but realized that it was a bit beyond me and then developed an addiction to flyfishing...
I'm now back in BC so it is a bit far for me to work on. )
It is solid granite, same as other granite areas in NS.
It is about an hours drive from Antigonish, near Sherbrooke.
The main crag is on the other side of Fifth lake from the 211 highway. I think it is actually called Fifth lake mountain.
It is easily accessed from the 211. Follow the trail that leads across the land between fifth and sixth lakes. Cross the creek (easy) and continue along trail up small hill. As the trail bends sharply left head into the woods. The other end of the trail can be accessed from Nimrod's campground.
I have partially flagged two possible routes through the woods which both end up at the same place on the other side of the hill. Follow the flagging across the little creek (careful, the creek looks fragile) and you are at the bottom of the mountain in the presence of many boulders (they didn't look promising). If you follow some flagging straight up the hill after the triangular boulder you will come to some nice looking little crags with some potential for short routes including a nice looking crack. If you follow the flagging along the lake you eventually come to the main crag after crossing a small steep creek. There looked to be some interesting routes here some of which would be well over 20 metres.
Access to the top of the routes at the little crags was tough but do-able. It looks even tougher at the large crag. Might be easier to clean on aid.
Photos you say? I will try and post them shortly.
I hope I haven't trodden on any toes by posting this, I meant to do it a long time ago...
I hope someone develops this area as that area of the province is a bit short on climbing.
Some other possible areas included another ship island (greywacke maybe) between Liscomb and sheet harbour, an extensive area around another dover island near Canso (tons of cool looking granite boulders and cliffs) water access only, and a cool wilderness bouldering area that I will post about shortly...
Climb on!
Mark

[MarkR]

OK, I put some photos on the album. The main crags start pretty much at lake level (but actually in the lake, and the climbs start a little way up the cliff).
Mark

[MarkR]

OK, I put some photos on the album. The main crags start pretty much at lake level (but actually in the lake, and the climbs start a little way up the cliff).
Mark

OK, it is getting late here...
I meant to say that the crags don't actually start in the water...
)

[Scooter]

s1weet!!

[Rich]

Sounds cool - where are the pics?

[Scooter]

rich they are located under the 'album' link in the top right of the screen by 'TERMS OF USE'

[granite_grrl]

rich they are located under the 'album' link in the top right of the screen by 'TERMS OF USE'

for the lazy (which is normally me.....):

http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/album_cat.php?cat_id=2

Looks solid! How big is it?

[peter]

It is about an hours drive from Antigonish, near Sherbrooke.
The main crag is on the other side of Fifth lake from the 211 highway. I think it is actually called Fifth lake mountain.
It is easily accessed from the 211.

Is this the chain of lakes running down the east side of the 211, just after leaving Highway 7, before you get to Sherbrooke from Antigonish?

Geological maps show a major fault line running up there, if my memory serves me correctly, as well as up two or three parallel harbours further east toward Canso.

Been meaning to look at it for several years, but the driving has always put me off.

[dpg]

Kirb and I bolted two routes on a lake near sherbrook. Could be on the same lake being discussed; if it is I think the routes/crag would be accessed from the other end of the lake.

Never got to climb them so cant vouch for the quality.

[MarkR]

Granite-grrl: The cliffs are big enough...
Actually I'm a rotten judge of height, but they are taller than railway crag.

Peter: Yup, that is them...

dpg: Cool! When did you bolt them? There was no development on these crags last April. There is a smaller, steep looking crag towards the other (away from Sherbrooke) end of Fifth lake. Was that it? I thought I might have glimpsed a bolt on it, hard to say through the binoculars though... The big crags are definitely best approached from the Sixth lake end.

Mark.

[Adam]

Kirb and I bolted two routes on a lake near sherbrook....
Never got to climb them so cant vouch for the quality.

u bolted two routes but never climbed them?? wtf?

[peter]

Sounds like a canoe would have quick access to all areas on the lake? Can you park on the highway and paddle across, just about anywhere?

[Zamboni]

My climbing plans for this weekend are looking bad. Anybody feel like going to a drive?

Peter, I'm looking at you!

[Stevo]

Yeah Peter, I think you should spend a couple of weekends gardening this crag, I'm flying to Fiji tomorrow but I'll be brushing with you in spirit. Save a couple of lines for me, mate!

Cheers
Steve

[MarkR]

Hey Peter
I wondered about a canoe myself...
A lot of the roadside lake is private property.
The crags themselves are on crown land (according to that mapbook...).
There aren't any nice beaches on the cragside but you might find a few spots to hop out into the trees.
It is a pretty short (10 min?) relatively easy hike into the crags.
If you guys check it out let me know what you think.
Mark

[The Mitt]

Peter let me know when u wanna take a hike up there. I'm game

Mitt

[ben smith]

I'd be stoked to clean some lines if the excursion happened after the 22nd

[ThomP]

I've looked at it from the road. Its pretty big, and pretty dirty. I believe there is a private campground on the shore of the lake.

Thom

[Scooter]

im up for a cleaning sesh!
not sunday, because ill be game for a climbing sesh!

[MarkR]

Dirty?
Ya ThomP its dirty, but then it is in Nova Scotia and not by the ocean...
But it is not that dirty, in fact some of the smaller crags are quite clean.
There is a relatively clean strip just to the left of the big crags, but that is because something slid down there recently...
Have fun and I hope the flagging tape is still there (orange).
Mark

[peter]

I am up for getting out to scrape and pillage this area. This weekend may be too early in the season for a drive like that, only to find both the woods and face wet and discouraging.

My work life is clearing up dramatically, as of this afternoon, so I will probably be able to get out any and every weekend between now and Victoria Day.

Are we thinking next weekend or this? Conan? Sean? Thom? Next perhaps for Ben, but our fearless leader will be lying on a beach somewere, it sounds like (don't visualize that, boys)

[Adam]

Kirb and I bolted two routes on a lake near sherbrook. Could be on the same lake being discussed; if it is I think the routes/crag would be accessed from the other end of the lake.

Never got to climb them so cant vouch for the quality.

seriously, why bolt something and never climb it? or are you waiting for conditions to return to send(er)?

[Scooter]

for us to send!!!

yo stoners im in for cleaning let me know when

[Zamboni]

I'm game, for when the conditions are right. Just give me a some notice, so I can work on the war department!

[Eager]

Kirb and I bolted two routes on a lake near sherbrook. Could be on the same lake being discussed; if it is I think the routes/crag would be accessed from the other end of the lake.

Never got to climb them so cant vouch for the quality.

seriously, why bolt something and never climb it? or are you waiting for conditions to return to send(er)?

It's called development, why don't you go climb it, and stop critcizing what you don't know?

[Zamboni]

Welcome back chris!

Cb.

[Eager]

Not home yet, still in beautiful, yet suprisingly cold Terre Haute Indiana.

[dpg]

Kirb and I bolted two routes on a lake near sherbrook. Could be on the same lake being discussed; if it is I think the routes/crag would be accessed from the other end of the lake.

Never got to climb them so cant vouch for the quality.

seriously, why bolt something and never climb it? or are you waiting for conditions to return to send(er)?

It's called development, why don't you go climb it, and stop critcizing what you don't know?

Ya, never climbed them for a few reasons... right now its because Im 5000+ Km's away.

Word-up Chris!

[Adam]

It's called development, why don't you go climb it, and stop critcizing what you don't know?

easy there hurricane -- it's called a question. i've done a little development and i climb everything i put up. that way i CAN vouch for quality/safety/etc.

i'm seriously wondering why you'd put up two routes and never go back to climb them. i've yet to hear an answer.

[Adam]

Ya, never climbed them for a few reasons... right now its because Im 5000+ Km's away.

oh wait.... there's the answer. cheers