CBC article

[martha]

http://www.cbc.ca/technology/story/2007 ... rming.html

[szymiec]

The glacier from which Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made their first ascent of 8,932-meter Mount Everest in 1953 has retreated so much mountaineers now walk hours longer to reach it. A two-kilometer-long lake replaced the glacier at 6,189-meter Island Peak in Nepal's Everest region.

I've been to that lake. Its really nice and I cant wait to go back. It does however complicate the approach for the more challenging routes on that mountain.

Got turned around on the AthaB glacier yesterday. Seracs coming off of Snow Dome are getting way way too frequent. I forsee a new route up the head wall very soon.

Also, the classic North Face of Athabasca is now being upgraded from a III 5.6 to a III 5.9 because of an additional few meters of exposed rock at the crux that was burried 10 years ago.

Bummer dude!

[mathieu]

Got turned around on the AthaB glacier yesterday. Seracs coming off of Snow Dome are getting way way too frequent. I forsee a new route up the head wall very soon.

Also, the classic North Face of Athabasca is now being upgraded from a III 5.6 to a III 5.9 because of an additional few meters of exposed rock at the crux that was burried 10 years ago.

Bummer dude!

So your back on your feet, good to hear. How are the snow conditions on the parkway?

[szymiec]

Yah Man! It was good but i decided to turn around instead of committing to anything too far back. I wasn't quite ready for the big pack.

Talked to some guy named Barry Blanchard who was guiding a group up AthaB NF. Bomber crust up to 10,000 feet. Good settling from the last thaw event.

The temps have been super high up there, 15C on Snow Dome summit!, and the ice falls are puking death every 20 minutes. The ski down the glacier was fantastic so we did some yoyoing on the AthaB side to kill some time.

A wonderful weekend but i need some work before actually climbing.

[Elvis]

Also, the classic North Face of Athabasca is now being upgraded from a III 5.6 to a III 5.9 because of an additional few meters of exposed rock at the crux that was burried 10 years ago.

Bummer dude!

Yo Szymiec, It's more like III 5.4 to III 5.8. Barry B was up there guiding Erik Weihenmayer(blind Everest climber). Surprised you did not drop his name too. lol

E.

[The Mitt]

Szymiec, Good to see that you are getting up to the mountains man thats awesome. Even though you didn't climb sounds like you had a great day.

Mitt

[mathieu]

Also, the classic North Face of Athabasca is now being upgraded from a III 5.6 to a III 5.9 because of an additional few meters of exposed rock at the crux that was burried 10 years ago.

Bummer dude!

Yo Szymiec, It's more like III 5.4 to III 5.8. Barry B was up there guiding Erik Weihenmayer(blind Everest climber). Surprised you did not drop his name too. lol

E.

Elvis, do you work for yam?

[szymiec]

Yo Szymiec, It's more like III 5.4 to III 5.8. Barry B was up there guiding Erik Weihenmayer(blind Everest climber). Surprised you did not drop his name too. lol

E.

I suppose that was a bit of a shameless name drop. Blind Everest climber huh, thats just strange. Now i suppose he's a blind AthaB climber too.

yawn

[Elvis]

Yo Szymiec, It's more like III 5.4 to III 5.8. Barry B was up there guiding Erik Weihenmayer(blind Everest climber). Surprised you did not drop his name too. lol

E.

I suppose that was a bit of a shameless name drop. Blind Everest climber huh, thats just strange. Now i suppose he's a blind AthaB climber too.

yawn

"Weihenmayer: Definitely. When I started ice climbing--climbing frozen waterfalls--a lot of people said I was crazy, that I'd kill myself. A sighted person is looking for blue ice, healthy ice, instead of white, rotten ice. I can't do that. So I'd tap my tool against the ice and listen for the sound and learn to judge the quality of the ice by the sounds my tool makes. There are so many ways to climb a mountain. I think people get trapped into thinking about just one way of doing things. Figuring out ways to cross those lines, that's where the adventure lies."

Looks like a blind man could of read the time on 2 o'clock falls... maybe it's time for you to go back and get the RP on that bad boy...

Good to hear you’re back in action though. It took old Elvis hear 4 months to get back at it after a broken shoulder.

E.

P.S. Looks Like Mount Hart Mountain is in good condition right now...Maybe a quick guiding fiasco up there would get you back on track…lmao

[szymiec]

Who IS this Elvis guy thats always giving me such a hard time?

I'm more than over climbing ice for the season.

IMPRESSION:

Transforaminal fracture of the left sacrum, comminuted fracture of the anterior column of the left hip with extension into the medial wall of the acetabulum, comminuted fracture of the left inferior pubic ramus.


Mind your pubic ramus!

Chris

[chossmonkey]

He is an interesting take on global warming. Its a bit long, but kinda interesting. http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=4340135300469846467

[mathieu]

Who IS this Elvis guy thats always giving me such a hard time?




Chris

He's nobody else than Elvis Gratton...


Eh!! Ils l'ont l'affaire les americains!!

[szymiec]

hey Elvis, put on some pants, you're losing friends.

boing!

[peter]

You know, this thread actually makes a sort of sense. It starts out talking about global warming and its impact on climbers, and ends by proving that warming temperatures may reveal more than we climbers really want to see.