bolted route in Beaumont (south of dieppe/moncton).any info?

[Paddlerx]

Riding my bike there a while ago. theres a gravel pit up above the scout camp. in the gravel pit is some solid vertical. i noticed a series of shiney bolts.

anyone have anymore info?
grade/owner/etc?

anyone seen ice there during the dark months? (yep..dreaming of it already!)

don

[mathieu]

Are those bolts next to the nice grafity "Acoustic SIn RUles!!" or something like that?

[Paddlerx]

the face is clear of graffiti from what i remember. small area stomped out of the grass/debris to make your start. very underutilized it seems.

[thicks]

just one line? any idea on access? could it be a part of that scout camp? How far from moncton?

sorry for answering questions with questions...
T

[Paddlerx]

its beaumont. its directly across the river from hillsborough ice climbs. about a 20min drive from champlain place. then from there its a hike uphill on an atv road. stay left on the road (which bascially means stay straight) and it crests over a quarry. take the road down to the quarry. turn left and its more than obvious. there may be other lines as well. dunno.

its certainly not part of the scout facility i'd think.

[motophotoman]

I have made the bolted routs in Beaumon Justin and Al Richard, there are about 3 bolted routs and whe are making about 5 more this year.. there is also great boldering in the rock pit and some more close to the water... once everything is done i will let everyone know the name of the climbs and rating

[Mountain_Marc]

anyone seen ice there during the dark months? (yep..dreaming of it already!)

don

No ice. Unless something has changed in the 6 years i've been gone.

From 96 to 2000 there was no ice when I took a look.

[motophotoman]

from what i know there is some ice there but woudn't be that much maybe like 100ft or a little more but there is ice that i have seen lat year....

[mathieu]

we are talking vertical ice right? 100ft that's like ... (100*0.3048..)....30m, please let me know as well as others here where you found 100ft of climbable ice near moncton. Not to be skeptical but, I am a bit skeptical on the probability that a dozen ice climbers that have looked around SE New Brunswick for ice in the last 10 to 15 years have not found your 30+m of ice in the Beaumont/Rockport area.

[martha]

a bit OT.. but Mat, I LOVE your signature.

hahhahaha good times!

Oh yes.. and where is this 100ft of ice? holy cow that is a full pitch worth!

GIMMIE GIMMIE GIMMIE GIMMIE

[thicks]

ice, geeze, you guys and gals need to get off the ice(i mean crack), and get back on the topic of climbing and moncton. Or at least back onto the climbing. Weather was great this weekend, and January will come all too soon...

Thicks

[Paddlerx]

Went down to snoop out the climb i had referred to earlier and low and behold someone has quietly put up another bolted route....cept this new one is safe

Pat me on the back. it was my signifigant birthday on sunday, i rode the cross bike down, met michelle and dog there. then we went up and found the sport climbs and i figured it was as good a time as any to do my first rock lead.

fun times!





and deep into a corner we also found this..which will require at least a visit in about 8months from now:


[/img]

[chossmonkey]

and deep into a corner we also found this..which will require at least a visit in about 8months from now:


[/img]

Is that supposed to be late April fools!!!

It looks good to me. If its bonded why wait eight months?!?!?!?!?!

[max]

Dorchester Cape has 7 35m ice lines. I climbed there most on the winter, Rockport has 3 10-15m ice lines and Cape Maringouin has 12 lines ranging from 10-25m. The quality is excellent too.

[martha]

why are there bolts on that route with all those cracks around? is the rock chossy or something?

[Paddlerx]

well its sandstone, and in an old gravel pit. the quality when its good is pretty good...but mostly i think it'd be questionable. i didn't bolt the route so i can't really say though.

we found a great but short (30') flake up in the woods that is really solid, and a few cracks as well. however those will all be TR'ed personally.

[Dom]

Because bolting cracks is not a crime.

I can't wait to try these routes. I tried the first one there wich was an 11a/b or something and ended up with a scab in my leg.

Don what would your grade the route you were on?
By the way Don good job on your first lead , haven't talked to you in forever

[martha]

Because bolting cracks is not a crime.

No, it isn't a crime, but it is a bit against common ethics in NB.

If it happened in Welsford it would get chopped unless there was a valid reason... which is why I asked if the crack was choss or something.

Cheers.

[*Chris*]

No, it isn't a crime, but it is a bit against common ethics in NB.

Hmmm... I don't know if that is 100% true. Traditional NB ethic - yes. Common NB ethic - maybe?

If it happened in Welsford it would get chopped unless there was a valid reason... which is why I asked if the crack was choss or something

Hmmm... I don't know if that is 100% true either. All that is bolted in NB is not necessarily choss.

Bolting cracks is not a crime

Nice... definitely the most inflammatory statement on the NB page in a while. Take that noise over to the NS side... they love to have cyber-pissing matches over statements like that.

While we're at it... Peck's been looking for somewhere to dry-tool... and any chances it would accept a few pins?

[Paddlerx]

yikes...people are getting all hissey in here. no need for that. this area is for the most part a wasteland. old abandoned gravel pit that had sandstone and conglomerate stone everywhere. tops of the pit is scary and loose shattered rock. even some of the bolted sections are way too scary looking (large shattered rocks that look separated from pretty much everything).

personally i'd have NO issue with anyone trying to develop that area in any way they could see fit. it'll never be a 'destination' in any way (ants, bugs, choss, hillbillies), so putting up some bolts to make an area that is inherently unsafe, safer...is in my opinion a great idea.

i can't comment on the difficulty or the potential anyways..i'm too frickin new at rock to make any valid statement. but i am patiently waiting for the ice to come in in there

[martha]

wow, I love how people read into things that aren't there when online...

I wasn't being hissy....

I had only asked a normal question and responded to the answer. I know nothing of the area which is why I asked. If it needs bolts to make it safe... that is fine. I stated that. Hense the question of the quality of the cracks etc.

Hmmm... I don't know if that is 100% true. Traditional NB ethic - yes. Common NB ethic - maybe?

Chris.. you are right... it is a 'traditional ethic' in NB....not necessarily a common one. and I'm a traditional climber.

Hmmm... I don't know if that is 100% true either. All that is bolted in NB is not necessarily choss.

I wasn't suggesting that all that is bolted in NB is choss... I was asking if the crack next to the bolt was 'choss' thus.. doesn't take good gear.. as that would warrant a bolt... Most bolted lines in NB are either great sport routes or need a bolt in a mixed line to make it safe. I'm just a traditionalist who doesn't want to see trad lines getting bolted. It is ugly, useless and sensless IN MY OPINION.

[*Chris*]

It is ugly, useless and sensless IN MY OPINION.

Just so we're clear Martha. I agree.

[Paddlerx]

'hissey' wasn't what i meant, sorry. i meant 'worked up' or 'excited' or something like that. sorry for any confusion.

[Dom]

Sorry was my statement might of been a little strong... Just a different point of view that's it.
I've been to a few places where they bolted cracks (i.e. Rumney, Skaha, Grassy lakes) and I thought it was nice, as it gave me to option of climbing them.
That beeing said, I think you should follow the crag trend. For instance I'm not suggesting bolting cracks in Cochrane lane because the general consensus there is bolt only what has no natural pro. Leave it that way.

But,that is Welsford ethics so would you go as far and say that global NB ethics exist? I don't think so...

As for Beaumont, like Don said it is an old place that people are trying to ''develop'' around Moncton. I see nothing wrong with bolting cracks there.

[martha]

'hissey' wasn't what i meant, sorry. i meant 'worked up' or 'excited' or something like that. sorry for any confusion.

no worries, but I wasn't worked up either.. just asking a question and stating my opinion.


I've also climbed in areas where cracks are bolted, and although it is fun to clip bolts since it is easier, I still don't agree with it. There were a large amount of routes in spain that were obvious cracks but had bolts. But mind you, fun to climb as you didn't have to fiddle with gear. (When in Rome) I don't agree with it though, and never will. Like I said, I'm a bit of a purist, and a trad climber at heart.

I"m not sure why on forums people get so riled up about things. My opinion is my opinion and nothing more. I tend to be rather opinionated about many things that others disagree with. I don't expect anyone to agree or conform (until one day when I am dictator of the world). I'm just looking for discussion.

cheers all. and yay for snow and ice!

[Matt Peck]

whew, glad I got onto this topic late, that bit about bolting cracks not being a crime woulda seen me all up in someone's grill.
Moreso because of the intent behind the remark. Im a sucker for blog baiting.
That link in the corner looks pretty good there Don, I might have to come take a peek. Let me know when it gets 10 cm thick, I'll come by with my Global Warming screws.

[Matt Peck]

I meant Ice. Dunno why I said link. Im only just starting my coffee....

[chossmonkey]

When I first saw those ice pics I thought it looked really good. Looking at them again it looks like it might be really short.

[STeveA]

(When in Rome)

Rome is in Italy not in Spain.

[martha]

(When in Rome)

Rome is in Italy not in Spain.

seriously Steve? Crap... all this time I've been thinking otherwise.....