Reading up on Ice Climbing *resources needed*

[Andrew]

I want to read up as much as you can on Ice Climbing. I want to be able to read up on what tools are used and what different types of those tools are used for what application. Technique, types of ice to look for, tips on what to beware of. Leading tips, etc.

Also, places to read up on the gear available to buy. Different brands and types and prices.

I'd love to know where online I can find this sort of information. I've searched but most eitehr say to buy a specific book or are guiding companies.

If there are a few books that I should pick up, I'd love to know which ones.

Climb on.

[Matt Peck]

dude, just go climbing.

[Richard Eh!]

Forwarned is fore-armed Andrew... so yeah, do some google searching! If you ask specific questions about ice climbing you might get better results. There is a wealth of the info you're looking for on the web, just gotta dig a little. There are also tips and tricks forums and supplier based info so check out the Petzl, Black Diamond and MEC sites for gear info. Petzl will send you their catalogue as will Metolius, but the Petzl one has a very large "how to" section on safe and unsafe use of ALL their gear. Good free manual for rock, ice and alpine mountaineering... how to rig , etc.
NE Ice has some good info on their site as well as many climbing mags' sites (check TIPS and Technique sections) And then, Andrew, there is the library...! You should look for Ice Climbing by Craig Lubben and John Long. Freedom of the Hills 7th edition is also available there and covers ice climbing as well.
All the typical caveats apply about reading versus practice and experience but I think the more you know the quicker and safer will be your learning curve on the ice.

Good luck

[chossmonkey]

For books I'd recomend "How to Ice Climb" By Craig Luebben and "Ice and Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique" By Will Gadd. Ice/mixed climbing has been changing quickly in the last ten years and many books aren't really up to date on it. Gadd's book is 4 years newer (2003) and reflects that in a lot of the gear and some of the techniques he talks about. Luebben's book though older (1999) still has a lot of good information.

I do have the 7th edition (2004) of Freedom of the Hills, but unless you are looking to get into mountaineering or want a big book with a lot of generalized information I'd skip it. It is a good book, but it just isn't that specific to ice climbing and has only a very small amount about mixed climbing. There are around 34 pages out of well over 500 pages of ice/mixed, a lot of which pertains more to mountain climbing than waterfall ice. A lot of libraries will have this one, so it might be well worth checking out if you don't have to buy it.

If you ever get the opportunity to get your hands on old back issues of the climbing mags there can be a lot of good tips in those too. You can also read up on how things were back in the old days, even if the back issuses are only 5 or 6 years old. It has been changing that fast.

Search the internet. RC.crap might be an okay place to start if you can get around their new site. Many of the old links might not work but there are a lot of links to other sites and a few users have even given okay advise, check out the "Gear" and Alpine and Ice forums. http://www.neice.com/is a good resuorce, check that one out for sure. Poke around the Black Diamond and Petzl sites.

If you can find a mentor, or at least someone who knows a lot about ice climbing that you can talk to and ask questions. Ice climbing is far more dangerous than rock, and ending up in a wheelchair or dead isn't that far out of the question if you get in over your head. Getting in over your head can happen with lightning speed.

[Andrew]

Thank you guys for all the suggestions. I'll start reading up. I'm climbign saturday at Waterfall wall. Maybe some others will be there too.

You mentioned Ice Climbing being potentionally much more dangerous and easier to get over your head in a hurry than Rock Climbing. I agree with that, just from some videos and observation and common sense.

Now, what about Waterfall Wall? We're going to hike to the top and set a top anchor on a tree or somthing. I have to assume this is less dangerous that leading and at some other location.

If there are any safety tips or anchoring beta you can give for Waterfall Wall location, that'd be great. I'm sure we'll be fine. I've been rock climbing since 1999 and am fully confident with my anchoring and such, but I jsut haven't tried anchoring for ice, so tips would be great if you feel i need any.

Climb on.

[Stef]

The downclimb/scramble to some of the anchors at waterfall wall can be a bit sketchy. Best to rap in from the trail if you aren't used to crampons. If you do chose to down-climb, make sure you have crampons on and at least one axe on you.

[Stan]

Look here:

http://www.rockandice-digital.com/rocka ... 007annual/

[max]

books are good, but learning hands on from an experienced climber is the best in my opinion. I did some reading about placing screws but that was it. Get some tools and just get climbing with someone willing to teach and everything else will follow. Following someone up a climb and cleaning screws shows you what ice is good and what isn't and also how to set yourself up for placing screws and rests. Have fun you sound pretty motivated.

[Andrew]

...and with that last comment from Max...

Anyone want to take me under their wing?

Im off this weekend... suppose it depends on the weather.

Andrew

my contact info is in the other thread.

[Matt Peck]

with the Max man on this one.
Looking to get into WW tomorrow a little later inthe day Andrew, we'll probably see you there.
yeah, definately rap in to the anchors from the trail. With all the ice this year the downclimbing is mad sketch.

[Matt Peck]

possibly going to the quarry though, so you might want to check out the parking lot (BP aproach trail or lot by train tracks just up the road) instead if noone is at C-lane.

[Andrew]

k. lemmie know before you leave if you have made up your mind if your going and which location.

Cheers.

[chossmonkey]

We're going to hike to the top and set a top anchor on a tree or somthing. I have to assume this is less dangerous that leading and at some other location.

TRing is less dangerous, but still has its hazards. Depending on the flow you are climbing (I'm not familiar with Waterfall Wall) if it falls down you can still be crushed. Be careful of ice that is free hanging or doesn't seem attached very well. It doesn't take much to keep low angle ice in place, but steeper ice can come crashing down with just a light swing of a tool or kick of a crampon. Also watch out for icicles that the rope could knock down on the climber or belayer.

Trees make excelent anchors and if they are available there is generally no reason to use screws to set an anchor. Just make sure that the tree is solid. In the winter it can be hard to tell a live tree from a dead one. Dead trees can be strong too, but they need to be water logged and frozen, or still in otherwise good condition. Make sure they are attached into the ground adequately!

The downclimb/scramble to some of the anchors at waterfall wall can be a bit sketchy. Best to rap in from the trail if you aren't used to crampons. If you do chose to down-climb, make sure you have crampons on and at least one axe on you.

That's good advise. When you are at the top of a route you are essentially soloing. I can think of two climbers who died this winter falling from the top of the route they were going to climb or just climbed.