by The Teth » Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:41 am
Seven climbers came out to tackle the ice on Sunday, Feb 20th, 2005. It was supposed to be a high of -6, but my snickers bar was a lot harder than -6 would account for. We went to Baxter’s Harbour, which is sheltered on all sides, except for the side the wind was coming from. Despite the cold and wind chill a good time was had by all.
The main route, usually grade 4, was not completely formed, making for a very challenging mixed climb which I am not experience enough to give a grade to. Both Bert and Rendog demonstrated some fairly impressive dry tooling and each came within an inch of the transition back onto ice before they popped. Bert displaying some impressive moves, using figure 9 positions to try to ascend the icicle without any footholds, looked to be on his way to a top-out when he got pummelled by a block of ice the length of his forearm. Fearing concussion, he aborted his climb and asked to be lowered back to the deck for medical attention. After taking some pain killers and finding a bandaid, he was happy to man base-camp for the rest of the day and got some water boiling to defrost our frozen water bottles. Rendog was not to be outdone, and attacked the route as well until he too sported a cosmetic laceration.
The canyon (or cave) did form this year and made for a fun climb which was best described as exploring. It started with a travers into the cave on fragile ice to gain the top of a skirt, then climbing up a formation of mini stalagmites to a mixed assent to a higher ledge, squeezing around an ice pillar in the confined crevice, and stemming upwards with intermittent ice. The crux was enhanced by a mortal battle with pigeons while contorting to gain the good ice for the top-out. This route saw four accents.
A top-rope was also setup on a 20 foot nearly vertical ice flow which reached the ground on the right side and started about six feet off the ground on the left. Both sides were climbed. Using a stone ledge and a knee-bar behind the ice, several novice ice climbers got some good experience transitionning from rock to ice in a very pumpy, yet rewording, accent of the left face.
At the end of the day we ended up at Paddy’s Pub, where Sara impressed the waitress by claiming responsibility for Bert’s head wounds, and Climberwannabe scored extra fries on the house by claiming that Rendog had been given more fries than he had..
I am not sure who the waitress had a crush on, but Climberwannabe did get free fries...
My arms still feel pumped, so I would say it was a good day.
The Teth