The Crater Club

[szymiec]

Hey,

So, well, let me start by re-stating that ice climbing is dangerous.

Yeah. Sadly i spent the last 12 days reliving the 2.2 second fall that fractured my pelvis in 3 places and left me hanging from skinny twins, 50 feet off the deck, for nearly 7.5 hours. Nordeg SAR and my 3 good buddies Josh and Timmy & Andrea saved my a s s , BIG TIME! STARS air ambulance blasted me with morphene and took me for a smooth ride to the Calgary foothills hospital; my home for the next morethanaweek.

As all people who've been laid out for an extended period of time can attest; aside from constantly reliving the fall, one also wonders how the accident will effect future cimbing plans.

I though i would start the crater club up and see what other's experiences are. I am a little too sore and drugged right now to tell you all mine but in time i will.

What has your fall done to your existence as a climber? Will you climb again? Does the anxiety subside?

Chris

[granite_grrl]

Wow, broken pelvis. They suck.

So its broken in 3 places, all on one side or on both? Unless you've been pinned up pelvis fractures are unstable and you won't be weight bearing for a while (my right pelvis was fractured in two places). My doctor didn't let me start more than feather weight bear till almost 2.5 months after my accident (of course I was putting more weight on it than that earlier, but not too much). This prolonged time of not walking really atrophed my muscles, almost 7 months later I'm still working on building them back up and I recently had to deal with muscle imbalances I was creating.

I hope you heal well, and I hope that your fractures are less complicated than mine were, but I fear they're probobly worse.

Now that my body is healing and I've got to start healing my mind as well. Just my luck that I would start back up during ice season, knowing full well that ice is much more dangerous than rock. I simply can't handle Nathan leading right now, even the thought turns my stomac upside down. I assume (and hope!) that sport and trad leading will be much better but I won't know till I get out there.

I would really like to lead again but the first steps for me is to just be able to be out there in a regular climbing atmoshpere. I think I'm still a ways off from even belaying a leader, both physically (still hurts when I just sit in a harness) and mentally.

I don't know what your journey will be like in regards to climbing. You sound like you remember what happened to you, I don't. I just remember waking up in the hospital....I guess in my drugged state during the first week I was even trying to make plans to head to the Gunks with a friend in September. I have had a lot of time sitting in the hospital and at home frustrated with my physical condition wondering why my accident had to happen. But you'll make your self crazy if you think like that, you have to think how you're going to make your self better.

But suprizingly I don't think giving up climbing was in my mind. I was looking at climbing mags that Nathan brought into me. I both desired to climb the rock in the photos and feared it. I'm glad the desire seems to be winning.

I think my accident has been the hardest on me now that I'm getting better and actually becoming active again. Its also being really hard on Nathan. I think he's sick of having to deal with me (he's been dealing with me for the past 7 months now, a long time for anybody) and he doesn't understand my fears while we're out climbing. I just want to enjoy tying into a rope and climbing on a regular basis. The first few times I got out I was miserable. Amazing that I still want to get out today (its only been three weeks now).

My wishes for a speedy recovery. Please feel free to PM or email me if you want to talk. I'm in the middle of the recovery right now so I have a lot going on, so much I want to say but nothing is really organized.

But I hope you heal well, body and mind.

[chossmonkey]

That is a major bummer! But I suppose I really don't need to tell you that. I will tell you to keep your chin up and remember that no matter how bad it is, things could have been worse.

As far as the mind F's that come to most people after major injuries I'd suggest reading "The Rock Warrior's Way", by Arno Ilgner. While I haven't done any hospital time thanks to climbing, three days in the hospital and a metal rod in my femur thanks to an ATV did teach me I am not invincible. The Rock Warriors Way has helped me huge amounts with getting my self back into mentally hard climbing after that accident and Rebecca's accident. (which I'll still argue took as big a hit on me mentally as it did her)

Our door is always open if you need to talk to someone about your accident.


Best wishes to a speedy recovery!

[granite_grrl]

(which I'll still argue took as big a hit on me mentally as it did her)

It while there is no boubt it greatly effected you, it obvious we have each been effected differently.

Maybe the big difference is that I have been greatly effected emotionally as well as mentally. Its not rational, but its not as simple as turning it off.

I looked through the RRW and it just made me more frustrated with all their talk of leading. Maybe once I get a little more comfortable with climbing and myself again I'll take another look.


Edited by chossmonkey with GG's permision to stay on topic.

[Fred]

I took a 20 footer and landed on my backside on a ledge while rock climbing. Imediately I thought my back was broken and also my right leg felt numb. As a precaution they decided to only move me on a spine board and basket. Luckily I walked away with no spinal or vertebre damage, only soft tissue. The swelling and impact to the right siatic area was causing the numbness in the leg. Although no bones were broken, the soft tissue damage was fairly extensive. Felt like my abs were torn appart and my guts were going to fall out and my back and abs spazed violently in the night for two weeks. Not fun.

It took me two solid years to get my lead head back on. The first while I was scared to toprope even 5.5's. I stuck to bouldering for a bit and eventualy made my way back to the ropes. Now, my lead head is probably better than it was before my accident. Nowadays I deal with chronic back pain but the strength and mobility of my body is fine.

It will all come back but it will take time.
Take care of yourself.

cheers

[granite_grrl]

It took me two solid years to get my lead head back on. The first while I was scared to toprope even 5.5's. I stuck to bouldering for a bit and eventualy made my way back to the ropes. Now, my lead head is probably better than it was before my accident. Nowadays I deal with chronic back pain but the strength and mobility of my body is fine.

Actually Fred, I find that pretty inspring for myself. I guess I've already tied into a rope, but its good to know that other people have gotten over pretty intense fears and have gone back to leading.

I guess I just have to give it time.

Thanks

[szymiec]

Well, at this point. I feel the fizz of adrenaline bubblin up when i even think about reaching back to grab an ice screw. (Thats when i bailed) Let alone the hopeless feeling of wicked dinnerplates while run out 15 feet.

Its gonna take some time. Im just so glad i wasnt in the Himalayas when this happened.

C

[Fred]

I'm confident you will both come back with even a stronger lead head. However, be prepared to spend 1-3 seasons working your way back.

[The Teth]

Well I am not sure if I qualify for the crater club. I did break my arm in a dynoing accident, but that did not really have a great effect on my head space. I was climbing again with one arm five days later. I think that was because what I was doing when I broke my arm was so stupid that it was easy to dismiss as shear stupidity. I did climb a bit more conservatively after that.

That being said, I think I can contribute constructively to this discussion for other reasons. I have an irrational fear of heights. It came on suddenly when I was about 19. It is an emotional thing, not a rational fear, so my experience climbing is probably similar to what the two of you may experience as you try to get back onto the rope.

I hope that you only have to go through this process once, to overcome the emotional effect of your traumatic event. For me, every time I go for six months or more between rope climbs I have to go through an acclimation process once again to get used to the height. On the first day out, I really don’t enjoy myself on the climb. In fact I find the experience to be exceedingly unpleasant. I find myself asking myself why I would put myself into such a situation? I think of how perfectly happy I would be if I gave up climbing and never climbed again. I look at my 10.5 mm rope and it looks like a 5 mm cord. I am suspicious of my top-rope anchor, if I am top-roping, since I can’t see it. I actually find it easier mentally to lead climb, because I can visually examen my last anchor. It usually takes me three days of climbing to get into a good head space and be able to completely relax and truly enjoy the experience. And then, when I think I am completely acclimatized to the height I go and climb something higher and realize that since I have only been doing short cliffs I am only acclimatized up to 60 feet and have to go through the process again to climb an 80 foot cliff.

Basically I am fine until I pass a certain threshold (and the height of that threshold changes depending on what I have been climbing). At that point I want to quit, and to keep going requires shear will. My emotional side suddenly becomes a lawyer and comes up with every possible argument as to why what I am doing will get me killed. I usually find a jug, where I can stop for a moment, and I review all aspects of the climb from a detached logical perspective. I mentally review the anchor setup, the strength of the rope, my plan for the next section of the climb, etc. This is important because when you get emotional you can make bad decisions, so systematically reviewing your situation and forming your plan allows you to act rationally. It also helps with the internal argument between my logical side which knows I want to keep going, and my emotional side which is claiming that I want to quit. Once my logical side has gone through the checklist and everything checks out, I force myself to do the next move (this requires an act of will), and then the next, and the next. After a couple of moves it gets easier, and in another five to ten feet of vertical movement I can generally relax enough to actually enjoy the view without wigging out, although the fear never goes away completely on the first few climbs.

One thing that comes from this is that I have gotten a lot of practice at facing fear. I know how to deal with it. On the down side, it gives new meaning to the saying: “There is nothing to fear, but fear its self.” Sometimes I find my anxiety about having to go through all that once again at the beginning of the climbing season is worse than the experience itself.

After going through this process on a few climbs it becomes easier, and then I just get used to the height. That is when I start to forget about the fear, and have to remind myself to be carful. The human mind can get used to just about anything with sufficient exposure. If you force yourself through the fear, you will come out the other side and conquer it. Maybe it will take you a little longer than it takes me each season, but hopefully you only have to go through the process once.

Teth

[szymiec]

I'm usually the same way, especiallly on ice. I really felt solid on my first lead of the season (i'd been mountaineering all winter) until i fell. I have always had the ability to breathe it out, a result of my yoga and meditation practice. Like you Teth, i stop, breathe and visualize my anchors. Even when i am ran out a few meters i can still hold it together enough to keep the elvis leg at bay.

This was a simple bad tool placement in poor ice. I was pumped out and getting a good stick with my left arm is always a challenge. As soon as i turned to grab a screw it popped and splat! So fast.

Another thing i am trying to come to terms with is the 1100.00 ambulance bill and the dirt bag gutless mofoprick that broke into my car and stole all of my climbing gear while i was in the hospital.

Man what a week!

[chossmonkey]

Another thing i am trying to come to terms with is the 1100.00 ambulance bill and the dirt bag gutless mofoprick that broke into my car and stole all of my climbing gear while i was in the hospital.

Man what a week!

If that isn't icing on the cake!

Do you have renters or homeowners insurance for your gear? With Rebecca's accident all the ambulance stuff was covered, presumeably because the rescuers asked for it, meaning it was required and Ontario Heath had to pay for it. Normally they don't.

Keep an eye on EBAY and other palces people are always trying to sell used gear. I wouldn't be surprised if it is put up somewhere on the NET for sale. It would be nice to catch the mofo.

[granite_grrl]

Another thing i am trying to come to terms with is the 1100.00 ambulance bill and the dirt bag gutless mofoprick that broke into my car and stole all of my climbing gear while i was in the hospital.

Man what a week!

Wow, talk about salt in the wound.

What gear was taken? Did it have any markings to identify it with? I don't know how often climbers find their stolen gear, but we can at least keep an eye out for it.

I was also wondering if you had an address we could send something like a card to. I really appreciate all the outside support from the climbing community when I was in the hospital and I'd like to give back.

Keep your chin up and take it one day at a time.

[szymiec]

Yeah, basically everything cimbing related i own.

Quarks, 12 BD turbo screws, full rock rack, slings, biners, 2 feitherd friends sleeping bags, Sarken Crampons, Sportiva Trango Extreme boots, Arcteryx softshell jacket and pants, avy transciever, probe and shovel and my wicked haul bag.

Its one hellofa good hall let me tell you! upwards of 5000.00!!!!

I was half hoping id see the mofopricks end up beside me in the hospital but then realized a climber would never be so evil.

Thank god im insured!

C

[chossmonkey]

Its good to hear you have insurance. Look at the bright side, if you decide you don't want to climb anymore you can just use the money to build a shuffleboard court in your backyard, and don't have to worry about getting rid of all your gear!

A friend of ours is always on the Internet looking at used gear so I asked him to keep an eye open. Its not likely to get your gear back (not that you would want old stuff rather than shiny new gear), but maybe the mofo can be caught and strung up by his toes.

If you send me some specifics on the gear that was stolen I can forward that on to him. You'll probably need to come up with a detailed list anyway for insurance purposes.

[szymiec]

Hey Tanks a bunch, Here is the list ive put together for the adjuster. ManOhMan, what a good haul...

ELECTRONICS
- iPod Nano 8 gig, black in color (1.5 years old) (MP3 player)
- FijiFilm s5600 digital camera (1.5 years old)
- 2gig Memory Card

CLIMBING & CAMPING GEAR

-North Face Base Camp Duffell Bag size XL yellow
-Northface Superlight 0F sleeping bag
-Arcteryx Verro Climbing Harness size large
-Arcteryx Sigma SV Jacket, Size Large, Black
-Arcteryx Gamma MX pants, Size Large, Black
-Mountain Hardwear Monkey Man Fleece, size large, grey
-Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero pants, Size Large
-Mountain Hardwear Annapurna Glove, Size Large
-Mountain Hardwear Dome Hat, Black
- 2 X Mountain Hardwear Therma dry liner gloves, size large
-Mountain Hardwear Wraith SL -20F Sleeping Bag Long
- 2 X Black Diamond turbo Express Ice Screw 13cm
- 5 X Black Diamond turbo Express Ice Screw 19cm
- 3 X Black Diamond turbo Express Ice Screw 22cm
-Black Diamond Metal snow shovel
-Black Diamond Avalanche probe
-5X black diamond locking Caribeners
- 2X Mammut Twilight 7.5mm Dry Twin Ropes (yellow & purple)
- 2 X Petzl Charlet Quark Hammer Ice tools
- Petzl Charlet Sarken Leverlock Crampons
-10 X Wild Country Xeon Quick Draws
-La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GTX Mountaineering Boots Size 11.5 mens
-Grivel Air Tech Evo Ice Axe 66cm
-Back Country Access Tracker DTS Avalanche Beacon
-Rock Empire Pulsar Cams set of 7
-Rock Empire Durango Cams set of 8
-Rock Empire AluNuts set of 9
-10 X Misc Caribeners

[Joe]

Hey, can I join your club? I took a 45 ft fall while ice climbing and busted my pelvis too, among other bones. But it hasn't slowed me down - I still lead ice without concern. The fall occured when being lowered down, a human error. So I still have confidence in ice as a climbing medium. Regarding my pelvis, I blew both SI joints, and had 1 bolted. Sure it took a while to heal, but I was back biking in 10 weeks and running in 6 months. Ran a marathon in 18 months. No long-term impacts as a result of the fall. I know I had some worring concern whether a busted pelvis would affect an active lifestyle, but the human body has amazing capacity for self-repair. So don't worry Chris, you'll be back grunting up the Himalaya soon enough.
Sucks about your lost gear. I noticed you mentioned the Trango Light boot in your list. I am interested in buying this model, and wish to know how supportive they are for front pointing on vertical ice. Basically, are they a good hard-ice boot? Are you up for a boot review? Thanks, and take care of yourself.

[granite_grrl]

Regarding my pelvis, I blew both SI joints, and had 1 bolted. Sure it took a while to heal, but I was back biking in 10 weeks and running in 6 months. Ran a marathon in 18 months. No long-term impacts as a result of the fall. I know I had some worring concern whether a busted pelvis would affect an active lifestyle, but the human body has amazing capacity for self-repair.

Wow! Its been 7 months now and I'm still not walking right....forget about running! Does this still bother you from time to time? My back pelvis break was aching yesterday for no apparent reason, it was kinda weird. Most of the time it doesn't bother me unless I've been walking around on concrete for an hour or two.

Of course our injuries would be a little different. I fractured the bone at the front and the back, and never got any hardware for it.

[szymiec]

Yes, those boots are the bomb. Id recommend them to anyone. The red ones, cant remember the name, are excellent as well. They don't have a toe bail or any insulation. Nice and light.

Climb on.

[Joe]

Yep, there was some discomfort for about a year, and it was a bit tough to run, but all good rehab involves some pain, right? And thanks Chris for the boot recommendation. I'll try them out.

[martha]

My back pelvis break was aching yesterday for no apparent reason, it was kinda weird. Most of the time it doesn't bother me unless I've been walking around on concrete for an hour or two.

one of my brothers was in a horrible car accident and broke one of his legs (among other bones and other various serious internal injuries) in 2 places in the femur. He had pins in it for 12 months and then had them removed. Even now, 14 years later, he aches when bad (damp/humid) weather is coming. When the hardware was in he could never get warm!

- Chris, heal quick man, glad you still have your spirits about you. we are all thinking about you.

Cara

[chossmonkey]

He had pins in it for 12 months and then had them removed. Even now, 14 years later, he aches when bad (damp/humid) weather is coming. When the hardware was in he could never get warm!

Were they the pins that stick out of the skin or were they burried inside the leg?

Rebecca has been having some pain from the hardware in her leg. Mainly the pins at the top and bottom of the main rod that fix the bone and rod in place. When I broke my leg they just hammered the rod right in and didn't need to fixate the top and bottom of it. I have a little pain every once in a while where the rod sticks out of the bone in my hip, but usually it isn't too bad. It hurts the most when I'm wearing my tool belt at work.

[granite_grrl]

He had pins in it for 12 months and then had them removed. Even now, 14 years later, he aches when bad (damp/humid) weather is coming. When the hardware was in he could never get warm!

Were they the pins that stick out of the skin or were they burried inside the leg?

Rebecca has been having some pain from the hardware in her leg. Mainly the pins at the top and bottom of the main rod that fix the bone and rod in place. When I broke my leg they just hammered the rod right in and didn't need to fixate the top and bottom of it. I have a little pain every once in a while where the rod sticks out of the bone in my hip, but usually it isn't too bad. It hurts the most when I'm wearing my tool belt at work.

I can't lay on my right side because the pin in my hip hurts too much. I don't know if this will stop or not, but the doctor want to wait for another 1.5 years before we consider removing any hardware. Guess if the pain does stop then that's better than cutting into my leg again, its already a mess of scars and scar tissue.

[martha]

Were they the pins that stick out of the skin or were they burried inside the leg?

His pins were embedded into the leg and put in through his knee with a bolt but nothing stuck out of the leg. He also had some wire in his elbow as that bone (those bones) shattered.

[szymiec]

Cool!

I just found out that my rescue was the furthest west STARS has ever flown. Apparently it was 8 minutes to bingo when i got into the chopper.

Imagine the feeling of that bird leaving just as i was getting close. Now that would have hurt.

Chris

[chossmonkey]

I just found out that my rescue was the furthest west STARS has ever flown. Apparently it was 8 minutes to bingo when i got into the chopper.

Imagine the feeling of that bird leaving just as i was getting close. Now that would have hurt.

But then you could have had an epic made for TV movie!!!


Seriously though, that would have sucked if they would have had to turn around.