Underutilized Welsford Classics?

[john]

A list of Underutilized Welsford Classics, and in some cases not so classics:
Ice Scream
Les petit Phoques
free mustard ears
granite planet
chernoybl
grandpas demise
slippery when wet
curried recolection
ragged edge
telefunken
perfect
central scrutinizer gets climbed a bit rarely lead (very safe)
everything on upper dawn wall
whatever is on above down home wall

I bet half these routes havn't seen more than one or two ascents in years, you should try them sometime you are looking for something off the beaten path

[*Chris*]

I went along with Burley and Adam late last fall to scope out above down home wall. Agreed that there were some sweet looking lines up there. We found on rapel, a number of career-ending, precariously balenced stones and detached flakes up there. Some were cleared but some still remain. I'd recommend caution if anyone is aspiring to do any groud-up onsight attempts this spring.

[Fred]

the list of wicked lines that never get climbed is endless.... Upper Tier is by far the most underutilized piece of cliff there. Apparently it's too much of a hike. Oh well... more for me.

My fav route that no one ever climbs is probably "Telefunken U47"

p.s. Ice Scream is an ice route. I think you mean Ice Creamed Cheese? (forget the name of it) far left of Lower Dawn.

p.p.s. Les Petits Phoques looks like a Chia pet right now.

[martha]

IMO.. curried recollection should be hacked up and used for dry tooling.

that route is AWEFUL.

Ice Scream is a 5.8 R route on Blow Job Slab. Karel and Pete Lloyd put it up.

I LOVE Central Scrutinizer. nice line. I don't have the kiwis to lead it however. Maybe in my next life?

Dynamic Duo on Upper dawn is stellar but I think that sees quite a bit of traffic.

I don't think that the Attic sees much traffic either. and there are some sweet routes there.

I do like some stuff on Upper Tier.. but the hike is a drag with a baby on your back.
I LOVE LOVE LOVE Be still my Bleeding heart.

Some other unclimbed classics...

- to save the princess
- don visits owl
- death trap

[mathieu]

What about the caving route up Gollums cave? When is the last time anybody wiggled their way up that guano hole?

What about overated climbs?

[Fred]

I climbed the hole in Golums two years ago and it was awesome. Poor gear but fun climbing. Who was with me? anyone?

[mathieu]

I climbed the hole in Golums two years ago and it was awesome. Poor gear but fun climbing. Who was with me? anyone?

It should be a write of passage to any climbers.

The climb shouldn't be judged by its difficulty or exposure but also by its fun factor.

[Stef]

Cara I agree with you about Currie Recollection. I have recollections of having no fun at all.

I always thought Coca-Cola would be a nice line if it saw more traffic. Decent rock and great exposure.

There is also an obscure and rarely climbed line called "It's way of life 5.4", very nice for the grade and never any traffic....

S.

[mathieu]

Where is Coca Cola, is it in the same area as Jean?

I agree with John, Above Down Home Wall is definetely unexplored/unclimbed.

[Stef]

Yup, you climb the first pitch of Jean, and the trend right from the belay.

[PaulB]

Upper Tier is by far the most underutilized piece of cliff there.

That's too bad. Most of the routes up there are fun, with a nice mix of sport and trad.

My fav route that no one ever climbs is probably "Telefunken U47"

Juggler to Telefunken to Joint Venture to Witches' is a good outing.

I think you mean Ice Creamed Cheese? (forget the name of it) far left of Lower Dawn.

Lichen Cream Cheese, perhaps.

[Matt Peck]

Y'all trying to get a rise out of posting Save the Princesses?
Me and some C4 are gonna visit that particular climb this spring. Got some unfinished business. And I don't mean the cams.

[martha]

Y'all trying to get a rise out of posting Save the Princesses?
Me and some C4 are gonna visit that particular climb this spring. Got some unfinished business. And I don't mean the cams.

It was Mike Fellows who told Fred and I it was the best route on Upper Tier. we went to check it out, and bailed just before the block that you pulled off. We called Mike that night and thanked him for sending us on that epic. He just laughed.

couldn't believe he was able to tell us with a straight face that it was the best route around.

[motanb]

Well I don't know about anyone else, but I can't believe no one has yet to mention ( so I will;-p)- 847 located on Joe's Attic! What a great climb! Longish, gymnastic, with great stone and beautiful views. Not to mention a clip up; aka no balls needed.

[STeveA]

Try Escape Hatch for an interesting neglected classic (assuming classic means old) route. Since you are in the same area try Ride a cock horse.

[mathieu]

Try Escape Hatch for an interesting neglected classic (assuming classic means old) route. Since you are in the same area try Ride a cock horse.

I'll second Ride a Cock Horse. Definatly worth the trip up there.