Rope soloing ice

[chossmonkey]

Does anyone here lead rope solo ice?

If you do what device do you like to use?

[martha]

Does anyone here lead rope solo ice?

If you do what device do you like to use?

Isn't that like asking if you play russian roulette with a loaded gun?

[szymiec]

The silent partner seems to be a big hit but pricey.

The Soloist seems more versatile and cheaper.

http://www.wrenindustries.com

Ive never tried either.

I do know of one very skilled ice climber in Hali, trained by Jeff Lowe, that is so above everyone else in Nova Scotia that no one will climb with him anymore. Thus, he has been forced to resort to the Silent Partner to get him up the smear at Bedford Quarry. I've also heard rumors that he sleeps with it beside him on the pillow once used by another partner.

hint: his name is not Chris, Mike or Mittens.

Hope this helps
Chris

[granite_grrl]

Nathan already has a Silent Partner, and has used it a fair bit while trad leading.

[chossmonkey]

The silent partner seems to be a big hit but pricey.

The Soloist seems more versatile and cheaper.

http://www.wrenindustries.com

Ive never tried either.

I do know of one very skilled ice climber in Hali, trained by Jeff Lowe, that is so above everyone else in Nova Scotia that no one will climb with him anymore. Thus, he has been forced to resort to the Silent Partner to get him up the smear at Bedford Quarry. I've also heard rumors that he sleeps with it beside him on the pillow once used by another partner.

hint: his name is not Chris, Mike or Mittens.

Hope this helps
Chris

Is it Peter?



I already have both. The Silent Partner is way better but you aren't supposed to use it below freezing because the parts might freeze and not work. I also have concerns about the rope slipping just from being icey. Last June I had a new rope slip right through when doing the preclimb double check. The clove hitch wouldn't hitch because the rope wasn't fuzzed enough.

I'm thinking the Soloist is okay for icey ropes, but I was wondering if anyone has used it for such. The Wren site didn't say anything for or against using it for ice. It does seem like if you did fall on ice you would have a much better chance of being flipped upside down and having to rely on your back up to stop you since the Soloist won't catch a backwards or upsidedown fall. If i just have to assume the back up will most likely be what will stop me I might just as well use the Silent Partner.

Isn't that like asking if you play russian roulette with a loaded gun?

I thought I was already playing Russian Roulette just leading ice?

[szymiec]

Nope, i think Mitt or Mike will know the answer though.

One thing you could try:

Fix a rope at the top of the pitch and climb and jug like on the big mountains. Those Petzels work well on thin icy ropes.

You can also lead this way but you end up running it out, fixing, then rap down to get your gear.

Regardless, i think its pretty dangerous being out there alone given the dynamic nature if ice.

c

[mathieu]

I agree with Chris, I would probably stick to toproping when doing solo ice stuff. Is there an actual point to leading (you can't get around to set a TR) or is it just for practice (might as well just TR and practice putting screws) or are you doing a big route solo?
My 2 pence

Mat

[chossmonkey]

Fix a rope at the top of the pitch and climb and jug like on the big mountains. Those Petzels work well on thin icy ropes.

That would be like solo TRing. We have and Ushba asender I normally use for that. I've also used a Petzl ascender, it doesn't feed as nice but the teeth make me feel warm and fuzzy when the rope is comletely covered in ice.

You can also lead this way but you end up running it out, fixing, then rap down to get your gear.

That's pretty much like doing multipitch rope solo. Lead, rap, TR or jug.

I agree with Chris, I would probably stick to toproping when doing solo ice stuff. Is there an actual point to leading (you can't get around to set a TR) or is it just for practice (might as well just TR and practice putting screws) or are you doing a big route solo?
My 2 pence

Some stuff is too much of a hastle to set up a TR.

The big thing is the mental flossing you just can't get on TR unless your rope is running over a sharp edge. I feel it is a good compromise to my wife and my parents rather than free soloing.

[chossmonkey]

Zamboni?

[dcentral]

Zamboni?

Only if he puts ice in his rum and coke.

[chossmonkey]

Zamboni?

Only if he puts ice in his rum and coke.

I put ice in my rum and Coke.


How about Mountain_Marc? He won the pull-up contest.

[Mountain_Marc]

How about Mountain_Marc? He won the pull-up contest.

You want to use me a rope solo device?? I'm so confused

I hear there is another pull up contest as the Smuggler's Notch Ice Bash. I should almost go!

[martha]

Isn't that like asking if you play russian roulette with a loaded gun?

I thought I was already playing Russian Roulette just leading ice?

yes...but now the gun is fully loaded...

[chossmonkey]

How about Mountain_Marc? He won the pull-up contest.

You want to use me a rope solo device?? I'm so confused

I hear there is another pull up contest as the Smuggler's Notch Ice Bash. I should almost go!

If you were around here I wouldn't need to use a solo device.



Have fun winning more gear.

[chossmonkey]

yes...but now the gun is fully loaded...

Regardless of whether you are roped soloing or not, if you fall you are pretty much F'd in the A.

Falling with a rope alone is better than falling down the cliff then bouncing down the talus.

[martha]

yes...but now the gun is fully loaded...

Regardless of whether you are roped soloing or not, if you fall you are pretty much F'd in the A.

Falling with a rope alone is better than falling down the cliff then bouncing down the talus.

wow.. am I going to have to censor you? by F'd in the A, I assume you mean

flyed in the atrium? furred in the armpits? freed in the Apartheid?

Man, ice climbing is dangerous anyway you look at it... I'm just giving you a hard time.

[chossmonkey]

wow.. am I going to have to censor you? by F'd in the A, I assume you mean

flyed in the atrium? furred in the armpits? freed in the Apartheid?

Flinged and or flipped in the air.

Man, ice climbing is dangerous anyway you look at it... I'm just giving you a hard time.

I feel so loved.

Rebecca thanks you for giving me flowers.

[chossmonkey]

I do know of one very skilled ice climber in Hali, trained by Jeff Lowe, that is so above everyone else in Nova Scotia that no one will climb with him anymore. Thus, he has been forced to resort to the Silent Partner to get him up the smear at Bedford Quarry. I've also heard rumors that he sleeps with it beside him on the pillow once used by another partner.

So who is this masked man who can climb ice like a psycho? Is he still in Hali? There are a few people I would guess on but their locations don't say NS.

[szymiec]

Ha,

Mitt & Mike knows...

C

[chossmonkey]

Ha,

Mitt & Mike knows...

C

It sounds like you know too.

Cough it up!

[szymiec]

OK fine,

Its Sean Drohan or someting like that. Nice guy, claims to be a guide, constantly quotes the Jeff Lowe ice climbing vids and has climbed Rainer(wow)

I know he wont come around this forum anyways.

I guess at this point in my cimbing career, broken a s s and all, i hardly have the ammunition to criticize anyone else.

Regardless, and easy target is groovy!

Chris

[chossmonkey]

Ahhh.





As far as your broke @$$. Don't sweat it. Sometimes bad stuff happens to good climbers. I know I've made some REALLY bad judgemnet calls over the years and got away with it by the skin of my teeth. All you can do is learn from it, teach others with what you have learned, and do your best to avoid doing it again.

[granite_grrl]

OK fine,

Its Sean Drohan or someting like that. Nice guy, claims to be a guide, constantly quotes the Jeff Lowe ice climbing vids and has climbed Rainer(wow)

He used to have a gear shop off Spring Garden right? Bought my daypack there years ago.

[szymiec]

yup, thats the Dude.

Anyone heard from him lately? Last time i checked he was working at that Spring yoga spa place by Dal.

C

[sand]

Sean was ice climbing last Sunday with us... well I think it's the one your talking about, but I can't remember his last name. How many Sean climbers is there in NS???

[chossmonkey]

How many Sean climbers is there in NS???

A LOT!!!

[granite_grrl]

How many Sean climbers is there in NS???

Too many!

[chossmonkey]

How many Sean climbers is there in NS???

A LOT!!!

How many Sean climbers is there in NS???

Too many!

Maybe we should just get a joint account here?

[granite_grrl]

How many Sean climbers is there in NS???

A LOT!!!

How many Sean climbers is there in NS???

Too many!

Maybe we should just get a joint account here?

Sounds dangerous, like some sort of sick monster.

Bet we'd catch up to Cara or Fred's post count pretty quick though.