Definition of "IN"

[Shawn B]

People should be conservative when describing ice climbs as being "in". If you are kind enough to report conditions here or on Joe's site, remember others are relying on your reports to decide if and where to go and some people might be travelling some distance to get there. If something is climbable (either on top rope or solo), it is not necessarily in. If something is leadable by some particular talented climber it doesn't mean that the climb is in. It is climbable. If a climb is "in" it should be in such condition that it is close to its normal grade as previously established and accepts protection consistent with the appropriate grade. Just because you could place one good screw on a 100ft climb or stubbies in crap ice doesn't constitute good pro.

[chossmonkey]

One man's thin is another man's in.

With the way that the climates have been lately many areas may not ever come back the way they normally do.

[Mountain_Marc]

One man's thin is another man's in.

With the way that the climates have been lately many areas may not ever come back the way they normally do.

To most people's standards nothing is in here but i'm desperate therefore the rock rack is now included in most ascents.

Even the Dacks are bare. This year's Mountainfest sure is going to suck

[Joe]

I think I will provide my own definition for the terms I'm using on my site:
"OUT" means no, or very little ice.
"THIN" means ice too thin to accept screws
"IN" means ice adequate for screws (~20cm)

Of course there are grey zones between these definitions, but that's the nature of ice climbing. I stayed away from the "top-ropeable" definition, because anything is TRable at any time. The main intent of the above definitions is to provide some idea of whether the route is leadable or not.