by chossmonkey » Sat Dec 23, 2006 8:13 am
Being non-removable is one of the big reasons someone would want to use this type of bolt. It is pretty much tamper proof. Some areas have problems with non-climbers, rappellers, and over zealous bolt choppers removing hardware.
They don't require a wrench for installation. It could be argued that because of their shorter length you would remove the same amount of rock as a longer bolt of a thinner diameter. Because of the shorter length they are only good for the hardest rock. This type of bolt also puts a huge amount of pressure on the rock surrounding the hole and in soft or brittle rock the pressure can fracture/dinner plate the rock over time.
They are a specialty bolt, in the right situation their advantages out weigh their short comings.
On a side note, I am curious about the removablility of any of Petzl's bolts. Hangers can be removed, but a stud bolt is a stud bolt. Short of being placed in soft rock and working the bolt out of the hole the only other way I know of would be to drill another hole along side the stud, still leaving a hole that is unusable and must be patched.
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