Eagles nest

[The Mitt]

I know this is going to sound hypacritical but I wouldn't care if every route there got bolted. With the amount of garbage and crap thats left around, the place is pretty much a right off anyway. The climbing community should be very greatful to the person/people who are doing that work. If help is needed for the routes at first face let me know, I will volunteer.

Mitt

[Nate]

I enjoy eagles nest. Thanks for the re-bolting effort! How do you right off a cliff? You mean just not bother with it anymore and let is grow over?

Is there any word with talking with MEC? Maybe this is a time for conversation chopping and moving about.

Nate

[The Mitt]

I really used to enjoy climbing there. What I mean by right off is the trash that non-climbers leave there. Last time I was there I cut my hand on a beer bottle on the cave route. It was really sad to see the place so dirty. Eagles nest was were I learned to climb and I did my first leads. I try to go back there at least once a year but lately everytime I go I think it will be my last. Sad really. I think its great all the work people are putting into rebolting it though.

Mitt

[Climbing4life]

Where is the Eagels Nest ?? any pics??

[Nate]

I think with the new bolts it'll be a great place for a day of sport climbing and a break from the usual granite. Great place to learn lead. I wouldn't mind a clean up/climbing day there sometime.

Nate

[The Mitt]

That would be cool. I would be up for that in the spring, it would be nice if we could get the city involved.

Mitt

[granite_grrl]

I don't like the idea of adding bolts someplace that really doesn't need them, but on the other hand it would probobly get more people out to that cliff and maybe keep it a little cleaner (as clean as you could keep it with kids still tossing beer bottles from the top).

[The Teth]

Rebecca, the new bolts are replacing old bolts which were removed earlier in the year. At least two of the old bolts were removed without tools (just pulled out), which explains fairly well why the rest were removed. Eagles Nest has always been a sport crag. It will be good to have reliable bolts.

It would be a good idea to get the other CNS (Clean Nova Scotia) involved with the cleanup. They should at least provide garbage bags, and maybe gloves. It is also the sort of thing we could announce on the radio to get some positive publicity.

Teth

[granite_grrl]

Rebecca, the new bolts are replacing old bolts which were removed earlier in the year. At least two of the old bolts were removed without tools (just pulled out), which explains fairly well why the rest were removed. Eagles Nest has always been a sport crag. It will be good to have reliable bolts.

I'm very glad that those bolts were removed and replaced then! Too many people blindly trust bolts. Good on those who took the time to replace them!

[ben smith]

there are a couple of clean obvious trad lines that I would prefer remain- bomber and close placements that are leadable on nuts and a good intro to trad climibng- but with community consensus some of the mixed lines should maybe be bolted

[Rich]

Mixed lines also provide great opportunities for people to learn how to place gear. If a route takes gear my vote is to leave it alone.
-rich

[Stevo]

Re-equipping should be done on a strictly like-for-like basis. Add extra bolts and re-bolting becomes retro-bolting, the cause of many acrimonius disputes. Eagles Nest is a scruffy crag but it does have some historical significance and is useful because of its proximity to the City and quick drying nature. I'd suggest that th CNS policy on re-equipping remains consistent for all the climbing areas.

Cheers
Steve

[Zamboni]

I agree stevo.

CB.

[The Teth]

Although I agree with Ben that some of those mixed routes would probably be better if they were bolted, I also agree with Stevo that CNS policy on rebolting should be consistent for all the crags. Unless someone can track down one of the first Ascensionists to get their permission, the style should remain as before. Otherwise someone might take it into their heads to go and make Stevo’s routes “safe”.

Teth