Best 5.11 In Welsford

[motanb]

Hi folks,

I think it would be fun to find out which 5.11 route (abcd) is everyones fav!

For me, I'd have to be a tad bias and say "Granite Planet" 11c. As for a second, I'd pick "Flight of the Valkery's" 11a.

Lets get the feedback people!

Thomas

[Fred]

I'm scared to post now in fear of Elvis bighting my head off.

I'd have to say "Never Ending Story" and "Biohazard"

[motanb]

where is a never ending story?

Thomas

[Fred]

where is a never ending story?

Thomas

It's the 5.11c sport route on L-Shape that Ulysse bolted. You had TR'd it a number of years ago.

[martha]

I love Montezumas.

I also love 'the way life should be'. Though I haven't gotten the crux move on it. that is DAMN far.

[motanb]

whatever lol

[martha]

whatever lol

Easy for you to say 'Mr. 6 feet 3 or so inches of reach'.... sheesh!!

[STeveA]

I think Slippery when wet is the best 5.11. It certainly is the route that created the best race to redpoint that I know of. There were at least 6 people vying for the redpoint. Several people missed out by falling at the final hard move at the top. I snuck out on a Thursday and got the redpoint that would definately have happened on the weekend.

[motanb]

Agreed!! Slippery when wet is an awesome route Steveo... Great rock aesthetic.. i don't understand why it does not receive more climbers? wHAT DO U THINK OF INSTALLING AN ANCHOR AT THE TOP TO PREVENT TREE DETERIORATION?ETC.
This route in demanding and solid in every sense!!

Thomas

[Fred]

given the rusty bolts, I think this route warrants a complete retro bolt and cleaning making it a very safe and enjoyable sport climb. With the addition of the routes at the right end, Waterfall Wall has become a great place to hangout. Slippery When Wet would get tons of traffic is a few of the clips were a bit easier.

r.e. my previous post about this route. I'm not criticizing the bolts by any means.

cheers

[Shawn B]

I actually think Steve had/has intentions of doing that. It certainly is one of the finest lines in Welsford and would see much traffic if retro'd. Inhuman Eraser Direct as I call it (the JK variation) gets my vote for the best 5.11 in Welsford. Some may not agree that it is 5.11 and may not be if you are taller. But that one section with the thin slopey finger jam and smearing feet and dyno/deadpoint to the side flake is 5.11 for me. And the rest of the route with sustained 5.8/5.9 climbing and two other distinct cruxes...can't beat it for quality, location, gear and the finest, longest finger crack in Welsford. Simply superb. And Montezuma's can't be listed as best 5.11 as it is definitely a 12. As Steve pointed out, grades are for on-sight...not with everyone's dog barking to move your foot here...hand there. The sequence for that route is not obvious and hanging on while trying to figure it out is tough. I'd like to see someone on-sight it and see what they think.

[Anonymous]

can't comment on slippery as i haven't been on it yet....

so instead i'll suggest Dihelio at sunnyside (yah i'm biased but whatever)... very untypical of welsford climbing... a tricky overhanging dihedral that is super pumpy... just a tonne of fun.

[PeterA]

Having just done slippery when wet today, it gets my vote for best 5.11 in welsford. A great combination of different styles.

[motanb]

Here's another good candidate for prime 11's- The Central Scrutinizer 11a on Joes Garage. This climb is gymnastic, pumpy, on great stone and tres difficile for the given grade! It seems to me that perhaps an 11c grade modification would lend a more accurate immpression for aspiring climbers considering going up this wonderful climb.

Thomas

[martha]

I really like Central and though I've been on it many times, I've only done it ground up (TR) once as the first crux gets me every time. It is one damn far move. The rest of it is pretty consistant though. A great 5.11 for sure!

[Fred]

it will be upgraded to 5.11d in the next guidebook. I don't like to change grades but this one is way off in left field. Much harder than 5.11a.

[JonA]

Ya Central is definitely harder than 11a. I though dad said it was originally graded 11c but I'm not sure on that.

As far as my favorite 11... any of the ones already stated are great, I don't think I could pick a favorite.