John Bowles established anew sport route just left of "Baby Face"12d on the lower Dawn Wall.
I was working the bottom moves a few weeks ago and nearly killed my belayer- and myself for that matter!!- by pulling off a crucial hold which was a rest considering the thin holds.
Now that this hold is gone the route is much harder I believe. It is technical, thin crimp climbing on vert to slightly overhanging stone. The moves chew your fingertips; so only several attempts are possible a day.
I think were looking ata grade of 13b or so which would make Serenity one of Welsfords most challenging.
What do u think?