Climb Eastern Canada

by **peter** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 6:45 am

Is there an online resource, giving the name, grade, FA information on the gear/top rope routes at Polly's Cove?

I am curious about the grades of the two east-facing cracks, around to the right of the face which has bolts at the top.

Nice short route climbing there, by the way ...

Peter

by **The Mitt** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:08 am

I believe that they have be freesoled or bouldered without the use of rope, gear, or bolts. I don't know who was first to do them or name them.

Mitt

by **chameleon** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:06 am

I remember Steve Brewis climbing them in the mid to late 90s.
I have a recollection of trying them myself but backing off. I would guess that they'd check in around 5.10

S

by **mike walsh** » Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:20 am

me and some of my friends climbed all of walls on that right side. Some of they are even in the Ghislain guidebook as like V0 and V2, but they must have been done a long time ago. I mean, it's high AND easy, whats not to love!

by **The Mitt** » Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:53 am

Just because they are in a gudebook with names and grades does not mean that they have not been climbed before, named something else and given a different grade.

Mitt

by **peter** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 7:05 am

Thanks, Seans. I pumped out on the left hand one, fiddling with gear placements; it is a sharp, slightly overhanging, fist crack toward the top, probably 5.10a, in comparison with Medicine Wall routes that are similar. The right hand one looked harder, more of a finger/hand crack. Both worth doing as trad routes. Not V0 as high boulder (leg break guaranteed) problems, but I don't know much about that grading system. They would be stupid solos for a married man. Peter

by **seanT** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 10:29 am

Just curious as to the difference between a stupid solo and a trad route with "serious groundfall potential" ? bbbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz insert sound of hornets buzzing here.

by **The Mitt** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 5:52 pm

One you might get seriously hurt/die if you fall. The other you will get seriously hurt/die if you fall.

Mitt

by **Stevo** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 7:42 am

I soloed the left hand/fist crack, no harder than 5.9. Led the R on a rope, 5.9+.

Steve

by **peter** » Sat Oct 14, 2006 10:52 am

You da man.

A trad route with ground fall potential usually has a softer landing than a stupid solo high bouldering problem ...

Climb Eastern Canada

Polly's Cove Trad Routes

Polly's Cove Trad Routes

Polly's Cove

Polly's Cove Trad Routes

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