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[Stevo]

The Winking Eye 5.9+ R (S.Punshon and P. McVey, Alt. leads)

This is an exciting and varied outing that will test the seal of your o-ring! The main feature is a large R facing dihedral that ends at the blank overhanging wall R of Aids. The start is only marginally protected by small wires and a ground-fall is a real possibility. A bold approach is needed. A selection of small to micro RPs is crucial and double ropes are recommended.

Pitch 1. 5.9+ R
Start between Sieze the Day and Jekyll and Hyde at a short corner behind a tree (white flagging tape). Climb up into the corner (wire placements) then move left on awkward sloping handholds until a pull up to small incuts is possible (wire runner to right). Traverse boldly left on better fingerholds to reach a good side-pull below a sloping ledge (very poor small wire placements). Climb directly up over some small ledges to the prominent R-facing dihedral and climb it until it ends at the blank overhanging wall. Summon up what little courage remains, then hand traverse right across a huge hollow sounding wedged flake (The Winking Eye) to reach the chimney-crack of Dr. Jekyll. Belay a few metres higher on a good sloping ledge.

Pitch 2. 5.6
Climb cracks in the left arete to a large bush covered ledge. Finish up a pleasant left facing dihedral to the left of a large tree.

Enjoy!

Steve

[peter]

Good description. A bold lead, which I hope will soon be an "instant classic" at Main Face. The start requires some girlie balancing moves over nimble feet (my approach), or the ability to hang your body weight on two fingers while looking for a way forward (Steve's approach). Don't blink, just wink.

[Nate]

Good Job on another first ascent! Did it end up going out that overhanging right facing crack?

Nate

[peter]

No, we by-passed it right, up the Jekyll and Hyde offwidth.

It would take some scrubbing, and a strong climber, to achieve, but it is doable, I think.

There are actually two cracks leading to the ledge. The one on the right, closest to J&H, is probably the one to climb. The other one is far more marginal, probably more overhanging, and certainly longer. The one on the right has a jug at the top to pull out of the overhang with.

"Someone" needs to give it a go ...

P.