Classics

[Fred]

I had a chance to lead some of Welford's classics this weekend. It's funny how you always avoid climbing routes at your local crag because you hear so many storries about a particular route. But when you get on them they aren't nearly as bad as you expected. Here's my report on the following 4 Welsford classics that have bad reps (meaning scary or difficult).

Waterfall Layback
Beautifull route. Definitely 5.9 and no less. Great gear but heady at the top. I think this one still deserves the rep that it has as being a stout lead with good gear.

Slippery When Wet
Yup some of the clips (two of them) are a bit difficult. But the route is definitely not dangerous or scarry in my opinion. This route should see more traffic. I recommend climbing WF Layback and pre-hanging draws on the bolts when you rap down. Put a long runner 60cm on the first and fourth bolts and no problem. A beautiful line and I'll be back for this one. Could use a mild cleaning in one or two spots. I blew the onsight pumping out trying to clip the 4th bolt (the only bolt I didn't have a pre-placed draw go figure). You have to hang on a crazzy slopper to clip.

Grandpa's Demise
Yes it's runout but bolts are pretty much where you want them. I think a solid 5.10 leader can get through this one without any troubles. I was a bit disapointed in the quality of this route. I had heard great things about it so maybe my expectations were too high. Nonetheless, it's a great climb but maybe only (3.5stars/5stars). With the rockfall that occured at the bottom, getting to the first bolt is a bit sketchy. Be carefull.

Pink Panther
Great line but I was a bit tired by the time I got to this route. I'm sure I will enjoy it even more the next time around. I think the first 50ft of this route keep this line from being a Canadian classic. From the ledge onwards is spectacular. Pulling the roofs is easy and not nearly as exposed as the 'legend' says. If you lead 5.9 trad... giver. A must for all.

On another note...
I toproped Human Erazer. WOW!!! dude!!! That route deserves some climbing. I'm pretty sure I'll be back to Minkey to do this one. I put this one in the top 10 for Welsford. I didn't lead it but I did observe. I don't know if this route would be "R" rated. Great gear at your feet for the crux and I think there is gear after the crux before you continue to the top. The fall would be 15-20ft in my opinion on a bomber piece with tons of gear just below that bomber piece as well. I could be wrong though. I didn't lead it.

[Mountain_Marc]

I love Waterfall Layback. It's always been my favorite route in Welsford but i'm a sucker for the stout stuff!

[Fred]

Sinus
this route is crazy!!! wicked exposure but sketchy gear and insane loose blocks. Make sure you have your head screwed on straight for this one.

[PaulB]

Sinus
this route is crazy!!! wicked exposure but sketchy gear and insane loose blocks. Make sure you have your head screwed on straight for this one.

Ten or so years ago, a loose block on Sinus (it might have been Snot) rolled onto Mary Davis' foot and nearly chopped off off her big toe. I'm sure she'd be happy to show you the scar!

[Fred]

there are some seriously dangerous and precariously stacked blocs on that route. Tread lightly.

[STeveA]

I am pretty certain that Mary was on Jean when she pulled the rock off.

[martha]

and I had heard it was Chunky Chunky....

i'll ask her next time I see her.