Clean & Climb - Down to the Nitty Gritty

[peter]

Teth's route ideas are good. I have climbed them all, except Oscar, which always spanks me with its painful, tiny finger moves near the top ... I don't think it needs cleaning, but all the others listed, do (I can say from having climbed them in the last couple of years).

Rendez vous location: good food and cheap beer is the goal, but downtown Halifax is then full of possibilities for after that, if anyone wants to stay out (so says the guy that never gets out). Of course, anyone can make their own arrangements. If we are rallying somewhere to save on gas and to get some beverages in without moving the car, I would say park at the Nova Scotia Power lot at Lower Water and Morris, as there is no security on the weekend, and there is lots of room. Anywhere else downtown charges during the day on Saturday. If it is Dartmouth, I would say the Micmac Beverage Room on the Waverly Road.

Those are just my two cents, so wade in on any issue.

P.

[The Teth]

Oh, well, I can get the ferry across if we are meeting in Halifax. What time are we meeting?

Does anyone know if “Don’t Let Go” [5.10d] (right of “Mr Puff”) needs cleaning? It looks like a good aid climb (at least from its description in the book) and at 27m it would be the tallest thing I have climbed. I would probably have to split it into a multi pitch, as I do not think I have enough gear to aid the whole route in one go. I would likely have to setup an anchor half way up, repel down, clean my gear while ascending my rope and then continue from my midpoint anchor. Of course I would probably have to do this for any of the taller routes. Seems like fun.

On the other hand, maybe I should clean something a little easier which others would want to climb after?

Maybe we should compile a list of the routes we suspect need cleaning?

Teth

[Nate]

Yeah Don't Let Go could use cleaning. I say that because I'd like to climb it so you can take that with a grain of salt. The Abyss is dirty(right once more of Mr. puff) and Conan, Lunchbucket, Wedge, Farewell to Arms, Buffy....there's lots to choose from...

Nate

[The Mitt]

Conan would be a great Aid route. Man good luck cleaning that thing.

Mitt

[The Teth]

Well, sounds like I have my area narrowed down. Final decision will depend on what things look like on the ground once I get there.

Teth

[The Teth]

Is anyone bringing a camera? That avatar image I use is a bit light and airy for my current image. I need a photo of me weighted down with about 50 pounds of gear. A shot of me on-route would be even better.

Teth

[Nate]

Teth,

I'll bring my camera along if you'd like.

Nate

[The Teth]

OK, so lets get the nitty gritty details. So are we meeting at the NS Power parking lot on the Halifax waterfront near Morris? What time? How about 8:30 am? If I take the 8:00 am ferry across and hike along the board-walk I should get there before 8:30. Or should it be earlier/later?

And Nate, that would be great if you brought your camera.

Teth

[peter]

How about 9:00 a.m.. I need my beauty sleep. Peter

[The Teth]

Sounds good to me. That is late enough that I might be able to convince my wife to get up and drive me to the ferry. That would save me 20 minutes of walking.

Teth