New route in E gully

[Stevo]

Bodyline 5.10a G (S. Punshon, unseconded, 25th August 06)

Starts just right of Enervator and climbs the steep aesthetically pleasing shallow dihedral. Tricky step into dihedral to reach good finger lock (#1 friend). Run it out using the intermittent crack in the dihedral and the left arete to reack a ledge at the base of the wide crack of Euthanasia. A superb and natural direct start to Euthanasia, which is possibly the best fist crack in Nova Scotia. This route superceeds the poor original start up the bolted groove of Enervator and is much more in keeping with the overhanging crack.

I doubt anyone has led Euthanasia since I did it about three years ago, but then again you need big arms and bollocks to match in order to climb that one!
I see someone is recleaning E-gads.


Stevo

[The Mitt]

No really tell us about how you feel the route goes

Congrats man. I will be home on 01 Sep 06. Road trip?

Mitt

[peter]

Hey Mitt. Here is a hint on the grade. I have led 5.10a/b, as recently as last month, but I didn't even try seconding this. It looked too muscular for a skinny guy like me. As they say in a job posting, "Punshon biceps not required but a definite asset ...". Peter

[Stevo]

Grades are all in the head.

"What if six turned out to be nine?" (Jimi Hendrix)

[Stevo]

Hey Peter,

Do you still have 2 quick draws of mine? Red slings, BD oval biners identifiable by 3 file notches. Otherwise I must have left them at the bottom of the crag.

Cheers
Steve

[The Mitt]

So the Great SteveO is littering up the crags? SHAME!!! We should have him drawn and quartered immediately

Benn working out I might be able to get up a New Hampshire 5.9 soon lol

Mitt

[Nate]

so, does this mean it's the e/b gully now?

[Stevo]

Hey Mitt,
I have been training on Nova Scotia 5.10s for New Hampshire 5.8s. Talk about overgraded up here? That route in E-gully is easy 5.10 real deal. Trad grade ego-massaging for sure in NS!!!!
Should be going on N.Conway trip in first week in Sept., You up for foursome??

Hey Nate,
Yeah those 80s and 90s E-names are confusing, can't tell one from the other, but this is the New Dawn of Main Face climbing, time to check out the other 25 letters of the alphabet.

Stevo

[The Mitt]

I'm in.

Mitt

[peter]

I don't think I have your gear Steve, as I dumped my bag to pack for the weekend, and didn't see it, but I will look again. Peter