Whitehorse New Hampshire

[The Mitt]

Went to climb in the whites for the first time this weekend. What a great place with super cool people. The routes there are major run out with easy numbers like 5.3 that can make ya wanna cry. I can't believe that I have been climbing for so long and have neglected to go to Cathedral and Whitehorse until now. First day we climbed at the lower left wall at Cathedral. Had jams that were like butter even for my girly hands. Second day did standard route at white horse which is 9 pitches of 5.7 (mostly 5.3) slabs. Until then I had never climbed 1000 feet, what an incredible feeling. Its a must do. Unfortunately climbing slab in 32 degree weather will totally kick your @ss, so we didn't get much done on the third day just one pitch on the barber wall.

This area is highly recommended for any one who wants to get up multipitch climbs. There is also a huge wealth of undeveloped boulders. The standard route is a must do for any east coast climber.

Mitt

[Shawn B]

Try Sliding Board next time. It's also 5.7 but much more sustained and aesthetic than Standard. Superb. You join Standard for the top few hundred feet of 5.0 stair climbing. Sea of Holes is good too if you are waiting in line for Sliding Board. Also, on Cathedral, link up one of the routes on the lower left wall (Bombardment, 3 Birches or Funhouse all super) with Black Lung and Upper Refuse. Don't miss the Saigons, Thin Air, Toe Crack and Pine Tree for more 5.fun routes. If you go in fall, Hotter than Hell to Inferno link up can't be beat on a cooler fall day. It's on South Buttress of Whitehorse and is stinkin' hot in warmer weather.

[The Mitt]

I love that place and think I will be going much much more. Its even nicer when I take my rope gun, that way when I puss out I just send him up so I can second

Mitt

[Fred]

we just got back from a three day trip to North Conway.

Here is my vote:

Bombardment
Still in Saigon (name?)
Toe Crack
Black Lung
Pine Tree Eliminate

[Mountain_Marc]

Bombardment and Be Still in Saigon (i think) are definitely awesome routes!!!

Love them.

[Shawn B]

Are those hand jams across the left traverse on Bombardment super or what? How did you like the slab at the start? And Black Lung...can you believe the jugs or what? Did you check out Book of Solemnity when you did Black Lung? It is so superb. My vote for the nicest route in North Conway (not having done harder climbs there like the Prow...yet). You should jump on that next time Fred. You'd have no problem with it. First pitch has 3 fixed pins plus other great gear. 2nd is a bit more exciting at the crux (especially onsight) but so awesome. Make sure to either use double ropes or don't place any gear after the crux until you belay at either the bolts or what was/is/sometimes a pin belay at the top of Upper Refuse. A must do.

[Stef]

Bombardment is defiantly one of my all time favourites. I did "Inferno", on the far left side of Whitehorse for the first time this weekend. The first pitch was a little spooky, but the cracks on the upper pitches are fantastic. Highly recommended.

[Fred]

the book looks wicked. Unfortunately I'm climbing like a bag right now. I'm a bit out of shape and a bit out of practice right now so I didn't feel as confident on the rock as I normaly do. It was great to get on these nice routes never the less. Next time!!!

I didn't find Bombardment all that great to tell you the truth. I'm not a fan of the super slick/polished granite. Also, the slab is sketch

[*Chris*]

Myself and a few other folks got on Inferno as well on Monday. Definately sweet crack system in the top pitches. I have to mention the Beast flake as a cool line as well.

[Mountain_Marc]

For another sweet crack route, try 'They Died Laughing' over on the North/Practice Wall (whatever it's called). Only a one pitch 5.9 but saaweet!

[Shawn B]

Stef...do Hotter than Hell to the final 2 upper pitches of Inferno. That way you avoid the first two crappy pitches of Inferno and replace them with the super nice face climbing of HTH...and you still get to enjoy the best two pitches of Inferno. Leaving the ledge on the final pitch of Inferno is a bit of a grunt...yes?

I find Birds Nest nicer than They Died Laughing...but The Slot is the best route at the North End. Sees less traffic so its not as greasy. The climbing on most of Recombeast is over-rated I think. The position is fantastic but with the exception of the final pitch, the climbing itself is ho-hum. Put the climbing on the beast flake right off the ground and it wouldn't be anything special.