Rout Info

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Rout Info

Postby Graham » Thu Aug 03, 2006 7:52 pm

A quick Question about the path that Sticky Fingers takes (I think it's sticky fingers; 5.10d, right beside mammilian perturbances on Joe's Garage) After the roof you are right below a bolt, from there, do you climb up the smooth face and onto the verticle crack, or do you move to the right and go up the bumpy section to the ledge and then join the crack. I was playing around on it last weekend and thought it would be a good lead and wanted to know the proper route.

Gorgeous day Saturday, I was surprised more people wern't out, unless you were all away climbing in places like France...Jerks.

And on that note, any info would be awsome.

Graham
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Postby Fred » Thu Aug 03, 2006 10:40 pm

the route proper goes straight up past the bolt (about one full body length + ) up the blank face then you traverse back left using some pockets and horizontal cracks. Finish up the obvious vertical crack to the top. The bumpy stuff on the right near the bolt is out since it is part of Mammalian. Although the obvious line appears to be left up the diagonal crack as soon as you surmount the roof, the moves are ridiculous hard. Also, the grade is posted at 5.10d in the book and should be 5.10a.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Graham » Fri Aug 04, 2006 9:24 pm

Awsome thanks for the info. I look forward to trying it out.
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