Telefunken

[Fred]

this route is quite dirty near the bottom. I'll probably try to get the brush to it this summer. What a fantastic line. Got on it again yesterday.

[Shawn B]

That would be a very nice service if you are so inclined. It is super nice. Are you going to correct the grade in your new guidebook? A top anchor at 30m would be nice too.

[Fred]

yeah... a top anchor would be nice for sure. The trees at the top are dying unless you hike way up into the woods where you can't rap with 60m rope. I've been finishing on Gumby anchor but found that unless your second makes it up the route you are kinda screwed for retrieving gear. I'll try to scrub this line this summer. Yeah the 5.10a grade is a bit bagged but I don't think it would be up to me to change the grade. I will certainly add a comment to say it is difficult for its grade. I think for history purposes this grade has been well established. yes?

p.s. don't keep your hopes up for the new guidebook anytime soon. I'm slowly working on stuff on rainy days but with not set deadline. If some other keen individual wants to take charge I'd be happy to hand it over.

p.p.s. Telefunken U47 Rocks!!

cheers

[PaulB]

this route is quite dirty near the bottom. I'll probably try to get the brush to it this summer. What a fantastic line. Got on it again yesterday.

Are folks not climbing routes like Telefunken anymore? At the time it was put up, it was a somewhat unique route for Welsford because of the multiple overhangs. It was also the second pitch of the 5.10 link-up.... Juggler to Telefunken to Joint Venture to Witches'.

[Fred]

unfortunatly, not very many of these routes get climbed these days. I've never seen anyone on Telefunken which is a shame. It's a tough route but superb quality and exposure. Needs a little TLC at the moment. I'll take care of that.

To be honnest, I think there are only a handfull of people around who would lead this route. It's not your typical 5.10a casual walk. The day of bold leading has passed and it almost seems like rope climbing is losing popularity around here. I could be wrong though.

[PaulB]

To be honnest, I think there are only a handfull of people around who would lead this route. It's not your typical 5.10a casual walk.

I suppose the same is true for routes like Pink Panther (another "stiff" 10a) and Catholic Girls. I'd venture a guess that Telefunken's grade was probably influenced by that of Pink Panther, which at that time had been around for close to 10 years. Both are definitely a step up from a route like The Juggler, a somewhat "soft" 10a.

The day of bold leading has passed and it almost seems like rope climbing is losing popularity around here. I could be wrong though.

The same thing seems to be happening at many climbing areas as the number of people bouldering steadily increases, and gym trained climbers stick to top-roping. In a place like Squamish, the large number of climbers makes it less noticeable, and quality routes get enough traffic to keep them clean.

In an area like Welsford, which is best experienced by leading, the pendulum will eventually swing back. When it does, the climbers of the day will get to re-discover (and re-scrub) a bunch of great climbs.

[*Chris*]

I found this route quite a stiff jump from the 5.9's I've been on in the area, but it looked like a solid climb (bailed out prematurely). I'd definately get on it again if the chance presents itself. Thinking about a more direct anchor eh Fred?

[martha]

huraay for more boulderers!!!

That means more cliff space for me!

hehe

[Fred]

I found this route quite a stiff jump from the 5.9's I've been on in the area, but it looked like a solid climb (bailed out prematurely). I'd definately get on it again if the chance presents itself. Thinking about a more direct anchor eh Fred?

yeah next time I'll plan to have two ropes and finish at tree in line with the route in case the second doesn't make it up.

It's too bad you didn't make it past the crux Chris because the slab and top out is surreal.

cheers