by The Teth » Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:19 am
2 Km past York Redoubt is the well established bouldering are of Haring Cove. Unfortunately the guide is out of print and only location information was included in the Halifax Bouldering Guide. Anyway, about 1.4 Km past York Redoubt there is a pull-off at the shore. Follow the path along the shore for another 0.6 Km to the highest density of bouldering problems in this area. There are four bouldering walls down near the water facing the sea just before the large granite hill with the pile of boulders at its top.
The first of these is the El Crimp wall which has a nice V5 and some easier stuff, then there is a wall with a bunch of easier climbs, then the Slimy Bottom Wall which has excellent crimpy problems, and finally the Dyno Flatulence wall.
There is another wall a little farther on, which I have not located yet, and some boulders before you get to the walls. There were also some problems on boulders below the parking area, but I find this area near the parking lot to be full of litter and not that pleasant to climb in.
If you do not want to walk up that big hill to get back to York Redoubt you can go in the other direction and catch the bus in Haring Cove.
As far as other options for people without transport, I suggest you check out Monday Night Bouldering with Sean T. There is always someone to give you a ride, and they go to all the neat spots you might not get to normally.
The Teth