Climb Eastern Canada

by **tracstarr** » Fri May 26, 2006 1:10 pm

so, not to get on the topic of to bolt or not..... I'm interested in the types that are out there and what is best.

There is a lot more talk about glue in bolts and removeable bolts. Fixe has both. It's said the glue in ones are actually stronger/better than the standard type. I still am partial to the standard type. On that note, there are options, including "removeable" bolts. (http://www.fixeusa.com/triplex.htm) I like this idea. You can remove the bolt completly to inspect it and replace it (with new one if necessary). This would be great for the future when a line needs to be replaced.... don't need to hack em out and drill new holes. (which is the case i'm in right now)

any thoughts?

by **The Mitt** » Fri May 26, 2006 5:16 pm

The down side to glue-ins is that you can't remove them without severe damage to the rock, they are a must for soft rock though. I don't know much about the removable ones but I really like the new ones that MEC sells (10mm) they look bomber. The other big seller is the new ones by RAWL, but again I don't know much about them either.

Mitt

by **Fred** » Fri May 26, 2006 7:40 pm

HILTI KBIII 3/8" new at MEC online not at Halifax store yet.

this is the longstanding KBII re-designed for better shear capacity. They go in easier than the FIXE 10mm and you are less likely to botch a bolt with these ones. Glue-ins are designed for softer rock. Not a problem in granite

by **zig** » Wed May 31, 2006 5:54 pm

anybody who is planning on buying these from MEC will have to order from Van. the Hfx store doesn't plan on carrying them in store.

by **Zamboni** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 7:52 am

Warning,

The halifax store is selling Fixe 3/8" bolts, they are infact 10mm.

CB.

by **martha** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 8:52 am

that is fine so long as you have 3/8 hangers to go with them and a 3/8 drill bit too.

by **Zamboni** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 9:38 am

You do not want to use a non metric drill bit for metric hardware.

by **martha** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 11:37 am

Zamboni wrote:You do not want to use a non metric drill bit for metric hardware.

I know.. which is why if you have 3/8 bolts.. you need a 3/8 bit and 3/8 hangers... likewise for 10mm.

ah... but you said that the bolts are 10 mm and selling them as 3/8. sorry.. I thought you said they were 3/8 and they are selling them for 10mm.... so if the ARE 10mm... then you need 10mm hangers and bit.....

sorry for the confusion.....

duh.

I will atribute this to mommy brain.

by **The Mitt** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 3:06 pm

Unfortunately I ran into that last year and had to buy a 10mm bit at the last minute. I find that as great as MEC is for price the current selection of gear is not conducive for climbing in NS, and that only 1 or 2 people has any clue about any of it.

Mitt

by **szymiec** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 3:03 pm

yes, mec halifax is a little sea kayak, rain jacket oriented. The MEC here in Deadmonton has a climbing section the size of that whole paddling section in Hfx. Good luck trying to find a selection of spray skirts here though...

I recall seeing some dusty hangers in Coast Mountain in Hfx a few months back fyi.

C

by **The Mitt** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 4:43 pm

I even tried to tell the people at the desk and spoke with a manager to tell them that having 6 of the huge mountaineering axes is probably not such a good thing. I believe that they need more selection of shoes, pads and a different selection of gear. All I got back was "tell the girl who orders the climbing gear" I left her several messages and heard nothing back. Great gear crap customer service.

Mitt

by **dcentral** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 12:39 am

You should see the MEC they just opened here.

There is so much clothing it's kind of funny. They only have two tents set up at a time, and there are kayaks and canoes in every avaliable space. They climbing section is the same as in Halifax. But that's alright the climbing in the immediate area isn't so great anyway.

by **mike** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 7:45 am

Ummm- You might wanna just go to the Hilti store, rather than wait for MEC to mail order stuff....

http://www.hilti.ca/holca/modules/store ... tOID=19076

There's lotsa different anchors available... have a talk with their friendly salespeople and let em know what you're up to.

http://www.hilti.ca/holca/modules/prcat ... OID=-27857

You'll want an anchor capable of withstanding (at least) a 5000 lb shear force. (22Kn for all you climber types).

Mike

by **Fred** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 7:52 am

don't just buy any Hilti anchor.

must be stainless steel Hilti KBIII 3/8" or 1/2". There are a ton of bolts here in Welsford that need to be replaced and they are less than 20years old. Choosing stainless is key these days. I'd be pissed to see galvanized for new bolts.

There is an article in the latest gripped you might want to read.

by **zig** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 9:17 am

http://www.hilti.ca/holca/modules/prcat ... OID=-32106

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