Medicine Wall - New route maybe

[The Mitt]

Anyone climbed the furthest left route at Medicine wall? Its the line just before #1 on the guide book? If not then its 5.3 Good gear and called Salt water boogie. Great day out there and what an outstanding wall for a sunny day.

Mitt

[The Teth]

5.3? I free soloed a 5.4 in Panicles in California carrying a rope and waring a heavy pack. (It avoided a long hike to the top of the cliff.) It was my understanding that anything below 5.4 could be done by a climber with good balance without hands. It is a little surprising therefor to hear of a 5.3 route. I suppose though that a 5.3 is probably steep enough to make protection a good idea. I take it that it is a trad route? Probably a good start for a novice trad climber, or a relaxing warmup. Is it a fun route?

Teth

[Fred]

Teth,

I'd like to see you climb some of the 5.3's in the Gunks with no hands.

Grades have just gotten soft over the years all around.

[The Mitt]

It maybe a little harder than 5.3 might be a .5. Not really sure but its a easy fun route, with great gear. Good first lead. I'd like to see someone do "Its a way of life" in welsford free with no hands.

Mitt

[granite_grrl]

Nope, 5.3 isn't a grade to scoff at. This weekend i did a lovely 5.4 at Bon Echo, which is simply a lovely climb. The crux spooked me, a fall at almost any point of the climb would be nasty.