First Face

[chameleon]

Hey Martha/Cara,

I think I read a couple of weeks ago that you weren't very impressed with the climbing at First Face. (The discussion had something to do with how great NB climbing was versus NS climbing.) For the record, I think that in general the route climbing at Welsford surpasses NS climbing by a longshot - even the much praised Cape Clear!

But for me First Face holds some of the best climbing I've experienced on the East Coast. Hopefully, I'm not sounding defensive about one of my home crags (!), but I'm a little baffled how someone could not enjoy it there. Was it a rare buggy day? Were you on a route called "April Cool" ?

Just Curious.

Sean C.

[Fred]

I was there with Cara that day. I have to agree that I didn't find the climbing that enjoyable either. I did one cool route. One of yours I think. A 5.11a (sandbag ) that goes up a bunch of bolts up an overhanging arete. We weren't there for very long but we had a few groups. One group set up to the left of the route I'm refereing to up a 5.8 of some sort. Looked very blocky and broken. The stuff below the arches looked alright but we didn't get a chance to play on those. The other group lead a 5.5ish way at the far right end. The climbing was ok but I don't know that I would go back unless I lived in Halifax.

peace
Nice route btw. What was it called?

[chameleon]

The 5.11 route is a Sean T. line called "Blue Sky Mining" - it's a good one but there are better ones on the face (BTW if you think that's a sandbag, I think he was originally calling it 5.10c). Unfortunately, the other lines aren't them.

The blocky 5.8 is called "April Cool" and is just this side of horrible. The 5.5 is called "Chalk Stars" and is even worse.

Hopefully, you'll give the place another try if you're in the area again. There are better routes - honest!

Sean C.

[Fred]

Next time I head out I'll try to hook up with some locals who can put me on the good routes. "Blue Sky Mining" 5.11a? It's a stiff one. Sweet line but a bit sketchy to get the first bolt clipped. I thought I could just scramble up without gear but didn't feel comfortable on that rock on the bottom so I went back to my trad rack . Once I got the first bolt clipped it was a sweet line. Very powerfull moves up solid rock and wicked moves. Felt more like 5.11b/c. Nice work Sean T.

On another note. Sorrows was pretty fun. I love the fact that you can go swimming. The scenery is great too and the lines are pretty sweet. I didn't feel very comfortable with my gear placed on those big fat crystals though. Makes for difficult cam placements and scarry for walking out.

Eagles nest. well...

That's about all I've done for rope in NS.

[The Mitt]

Main Face has alot to offer and even more to be developed. Its an outstanding craig but very sandbaged. Just because it's a 5.9 does not mean it feels like a .10 b (Mr Puff, Conan). Not many people go to main face so it can be pretty dirty as well.

Mitt