Welsford Bald Peak

Home of Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs.

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Welsford Bald Peak

Postby Dom » Wed Apr 05, 2006 1:51 pm

Hey I am looking to go to Welsford this Friday. From what I could read on Fred's Beta page, Bald Peak seems the best place for toproping.

Is it easily accessible this time of year?

Furthermore, Is it far for the Cochrane lane cliffs?

Thanks, I know I should be more informed to head over there but from what I read it does not seem that complicated to get there.
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Postby DanR » Wed Apr 05, 2006 4:38 pm

Dom,

If you wanna wait till sat, or sunday (whichever is nicer) i'll go with you guys and show you around. A few of us from moncton were plannning on going this weekend if the weather's good. It's much easier with someone that knows the place. If you do go friday, bald peak is easy to set up for top-roping, and pretty easy access. Just a hike up a hill and you're there. Cochrane lane is just a mile or 2 from the parking for bald peak.
email me if interested.
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Postby Pierre » Wed Apr 05, 2006 4:52 pm

Dombackpacker - you need to get your hands on the Welsford guide book!

Dombackpacker wrote:Is it easily accessible this time of year?


I'm assuming the trail can't be to bad going up to Bald Peak - it's been a dry winter and every where I've been this year has been dry. It's about a 30 min walk up hill to reach the bald peak cliffs. Most of the routes have bolted anchors because there is no trees, It's great area for a day of top roping.


Dombackpacker wrote:Furthermore, Is it far for the Cochrane lane cliffs?


If your coming in from St. John you will see quite easily the Cochrane lane cliffs from the highway. If I was you I'd pick one area to go to. Both cliffs are fairly close about 5 min drive at the most but both involve about a 20-30 minute hike.

My favorite area is Cochrane lane but if you don't have the guide book it might be a better choice to go to bald peak.

Hope your Friday climbing trip if a fun one.
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Postby Fred » Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:28 pm

saturday at Joe's is where the party is at :)
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Andrew » Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:52 pm

Cochrane Lane is where its at.

The bald peak routes aren't exactly simple routes if your a beginner. You get 1 unnamed route that is easy and then the rest are 5.8-5.10 with the exception of two 5.5/5.6 routes which are really fun but very short. The other easier routes require leading or natural gear anchor.

I would suggest, as fred said, heading to Joe's Garage or Exfoliated wall in cochane lane.

I hope to be there this weekend... just gotta get a partner.
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Postby Dom » Thu Apr 06, 2006 12:16 am

Andrew wrote:Cochrane Lane is where its at.


Is there any toproping at Cochrane lane? I don't have any quickdraws or and any hardware, YET.
I climb 5.8 , haven't tryed 5.9 yet so im looking for something in that range.
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Postby Pierre » Thu Apr 06, 2006 6:28 am

The weather looks pretty sweet this weekend... I should start looking for a partner and get my arse up to Welsford this weekend and join the party.
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Postby Andrew » Thu Apr 06, 2006 8:18 am

If you're climbing 5.8 then Bald Peak might be of use to you then. Cochrane Lane .. most routes can be top roped.

Joe's Garage is an easy walk around and Exfoliated, you have to walk past to the top of the routes to get down to the bottoms. THere are trees to anchor to.

If your top roping you're going to need some webbing or slings/cord and a few biners(locking) to soet your anchor. Long cord/webbing/slings would help as the trees are large in some areas.

Bald Peak has double bolt hanger anchors so all you need is two slings and a locker or two for an anchor. Cochrane is going to need more slings

Pyramid Wall can also be toped, easy way to the top with a fixed static rope - bolt hangers at the top.

Bald peak will be the easiest place to setup, get up, get climbing and get gone. Maybe try that one day and then try cochrane lane the next day.

Once you've found the nice routes at Cochrane Lane, you'll seldom com back to Bald Peak.
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Postby martha » Thu Apr 06, 2006 8:21 am

Dombackpacker wrote:Is there any toproping at Cochrane lane? I don't have any quickdraws or and any hardware, YET.


There is lots of stuff to toprope at Cochrane lane, but I would take Dan up on his offer to show you around as it can be tricky your first time there.

It is 95% trad too by the way, so quickdraws without trad gear won't get you very far.

Enjoy!
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Postby thicks » Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:45 am

I would just like to thank the summer climbin season for returning to us this year and to ask the question of when do we start the weekday post-work climbin trips?
T
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Postby thicks » Thu Apr 06, 2006 12:36 pm

I open my friggin mouth about the summer climbing season and then it snows at lunch. i hate myself.
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Postby martha » Thu Apr 06, 2006 3:55 pm

thicks wrote:I would just like to thank the summer climbin season for returning to us this year and to ask the question of when do we start the weekday post-work climbin trips?
T


When it stays light out until at least 8:30 or 9pm then we are all on for after work climbing!
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

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Postby Dom » Thu Apr 06, 2006 4:52 pm

Well i guess I spoke too soon. Yesterday morning they predicted +12 with a few clouds for Friday and now they are predicting60% chance of rain. Add insult to injury, a shitload of snow fell...I guess I'll try to head up there Sunday.

Dan I sent you an email
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