New climbing group

[Stevo]

Hi all,

I am forming a new climbing group in the Halifax area henceforth known collectively as "The Stoners Climbing Group" (The Stoners CG). This ain't yer average climbing club, but is modelled on the classic "Stonemasters" of Yosemite fame (but with far less talent!). There is no membership fee or card, board of directors, insurance, list of regulations, minutes of annual meeting etc etc. It will be far more ephemeral, simply a loose association of like-minded people whose overriding desire is to climb on real outdoor rock and drink as much beer as possible. People who wish to be a "Stoner" will have access to free rides, pooled gear, advice on trad climbing (For what it's worth: I don't have even one certificate and never wish to get one, only 30 years climbing experience on crags around the world). I will throw in some money for Tee shirts if anyone can come up with a cool design. The only rule is that to be a "Stoner" you have to be able to on-sight lead (or solo) 5.7. But hey, even if you can't do that you can be an "apprentice Stoner" with the same benefits, only you will be expected to carry ropes, make tea etc. Stoners can expect to be routinely ridiculed for offences such as training, crash pads, having certificates, wearing bandanas, clipping bolts etc. but will gain respect for running it out, cruising routes while hungover and decking from big heights. Meets will be on an ad hock last minute basis notified on this message board or ultimately on a "Stoners" web site. The first meet is this Saturday for a crag cleaning session, further details shortly. I realise that I may be the only sad member but that is a risk one takes, who is up for it??

Cheers
Steve

[The Mitt]

I'm in just as long as it does not affect the Canadian Forces drug policy I am sure to take much ridcule as I have a pad, clip bolts, pull on plastic, and usually cry (really) on every trad route I atempt. I will stand toe to toe with any climber in the beer drinking catagory though. I can't make this weekends meeting however will be there in spirit as I will be getting drunk at a Christmas Gala.

The Mitt
The Stoners CG

"Stoners do it higher"

[The Mitt]

Hey maybe we could get sponsored by pizza hut and Guiness. Or is that too healthy?

Mitt

[Peter]

I'm with you. Will we have to climb naked, like the Vulgarians?

Peter

[SeanT]

Will there be a newsletter? If so do you think it could be printed on ZigZags? I know they are small but well...you get the idea

[Stevo]

A spliffy idea. As for climbing naked, well it's not obligatory but I won't stand in yer way Peter.
For anybody interested I'm going out to the Musquodoboit area tomorrow morning to clean a new crag. Forcast is cold and there is a gruelling 20 min hike.... guess I'm on my own then! Otherwise email me at spunshon@dal.ca today.

Cheers

[The Teth]

There is no membership fee or card, board of directors, insurance, list of regulations, minutes of annual meeting etc etc.

I am soooo envious.

...

Father Punshon, I must confess. It has been twelve months since I last climbed trad. I am so ashamed!

The Teth

[ThomP]

Normally I'd be a bit leery of a group that encouraged McVey to climb naked, but WTF, sign me up!

Thom

[Bert]

You can count me in. Saddly I read your message a bit late 'cause I would have been with you for the cleaning. I think Nova-scotia required a lot of climbing on it's crags!!!!!

[guest]

would this climbing group be available to beginner trad climbers who are eager to learn? or even to thise who have never touched trad but a willing to give it a shot?

[Stevo]

Sure, if have a basic understanding of rope management, belaying, rapelling etc but want to get a feel for trad, then come along, try seconding some routes.
A couple of us did go out today and some lines were brushed. The weather was cold but I soloed a new route anyway, only 5.6 but nice.

Cheers

Stevo P

[Guest]

Where is the crag you opened in musquodobit, I'd like to try this 5.6 when I'll be back from hollidays.

Let me know if you plan in doing some cleaning sesion again, I would certainly go.

I have all my gears so it's easy for me to go in this kind of events.

We are few guys here that climb, but I am pretty much the only that does trad climbing. We opened some "new routes" in Chebucto Head. I'm not sure they are really new routes, but I never heard about poeple climbing arround there. They required ropes and trad gear for the belay stations. We opened routes from 5.7 to arround 5.11

If some people are interesting to know where it is exectly I am willing to go with them or gives indications where it is.

Let me know when is your next exit after the hollidays.

Bert.

[tracstarr]

if it's in chebucto head it's probably been done, and without a rope. But since you didn't leave many details it's hard to tell.

[dcentral]

I had no idea anything was that high over there use a rope. Except way out at the Jazzberry ram area.

[granite_grrl]

I remember that some of the cravasses (I'm not sure the right word for it, where the water has come in and cut away the rock) had some fairly verticle walls down in Chebucto Head. My partner at the time and I thought it'd be nice to try climbing some of them, but I think that they also seemed kinda wet and manky too.

Hmm, I really haven't been down there in years, so memory is pretty sketchy on the details.

Rebecca

[peter]

I believe Bert is referring to the cleft in the cliff immediately below the lighthouse, aren't you Bert?

[Stevo]

Hey Bert,
The crag is on one of the new trails above Railway Crag. I will post full access details and route descriptions soon. As long as the snow stays away I'm looking to get out any nice day over the Xmas break and beyond if anyone is interested in long hikes and cold fingers!

[BolderBoy]

Sounds good. I like the name, I think most climbers are "Stoners" anyway.

[Bert]

Some of the routes we climbed in Chebucto Head are probably possible to climb without ropes, but most of them would be to high.

They are situated in the crevasses left to the lighthouse. Theses crevasses are pretty high. I first tought that due to the water theses craks would have a lot of looses rocks, but it seems to be solid.

I guess sometimes it is a bit wet, but where we climb this fall was dry except at one place. One of theses crevasse is verry large and has many possibilities the second one is about a meter and a half large and does not have so many possibilities. The second crevasse has two very interesting routes. One of them would be a good 5.11. It's a crack that lightly incline to the right. After the crack you reach a corner and you have to figure out your way up on some little crimpers.

We also had some good time in a boulder area to the right of theses cracks. I never bouldered a lot, and would need more experience in this to feel compfortable. I always find the crash pad very thin!!!!!!!!!!

Let me know if some of you already climbed arround there. I think it's an interesting spot very close to halifax.

[Bert]

Stevo,

I tried to go once to railway crag at the begining of the season. I don't know if I found the right place, but the trail was horrible due to the hurricane. The crag itself was very very very dirty. Maybe we were not at the right place. We were on the crag where there is a rail guard on the top of it.

Anyway, I really hope it is easier to get in than railway crag (if it where we were!!!)

Thanks for the info!

Bert

[Stevo]

Hi Bert,

I went snowshoeing around that area yesterday and the short trail to Railway is near impassable due to fallen trees, a lot look fresh -maybe from November. Best to walk up the main railway line until a small crag appears on the right and follow the marked trail, I think it's called the Admiral lake loop. This takes you close to the bottom of Railway. A lot of the cliff is dirty but there are some clean gems. For the middle grade leader there are two excellent 5.7s, Left of Centre and Derailed. The other crag I have been scrubbing can be reached by continuing along the afore-mentioned trail for half an hour. The developers of the trail have already named it "The Cave" complete with sign and this seems appropriate, even though there is another "Cave" (crap in comparison) at Eagles Nest.

Cheers
Stevo

[peter]

December 16, 2004, the start of a new era in N.S. Trad Climbing.

Time to re-read the first post, then sign-on for the Real Rock Revival.