route?

[jeremy]

Wednesday john and i climbed astroboy, ending at the huge spruce on big ledge. At the left of this ledge a corner system continued up past another big ledge and a few more trees. It ended on the backside of the detached block. It was nice easy climbing with cool moves. What route is this? the boulevard? some enchanted evening?

Everything was dry and most of the snow was gone, it looks like an early start to the season with hopefully no runoff water.

[jeremy]

oops wrong forum. I'm talking about welsford. "move me please to the nb forum"

[Fred]

Jeremy,

read the previous lengthy post about routes in that area. I think you can get the answer there.

http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/viewtopic.php?t=1011


If you read the current guidebook there is mention of a route going up above Boulevard I think. I believe that is the route you are talking about. I'll look in my guidebook when I go home.

I think this is the route you climbed or a variation there of:
Some Enchanted Evening 5.3
From the top of The Boulevard. Traverse along the ledge for 15ft then climb a crack in the middle of the ledge. Continue to the top stayind lef of the trees.

[jeremy]

I guess it was Some enchanted evening. And yes as mentioned in the other post there was a fixed hex (actually a slung nut) on this route, at least 20-30yrs old.

[Fred]

did the route feel about 5.3?

[Fred]

On another note, what did you think of Astroboy? Sweet line eh! I might take a brush to it one day to improve it. It's a worthy line. Shawn B is talking about a bolted direct start up the face below. It looks sweet. Crimpy flakes up the face. This would certainly become a well traveled route.


getting down off AStroboy is a bugger though unless you have two ropes. It would be nice if there was a bolted belay somewhere on the right sid of the Gallery. Perhaps if Shawn develops the direct start to AStroboy he can put a bolt belay at the start of the route. Good anchor for belaying up and good anchor for decent.

just a thought.

[jeremy]

Yeah good route. Kind of a bugger to get into. rock quality was kinda suspect in places. Glad I had little cams. Having some nuts would have helped too. We looked at a direct start and thought it would be cool. Yeah a bolted belay and lowering anchor would help things out a bit in that area. we had a little trouble getting down.

[Fred]

what was the grade for Enchanted Evening?

[jeremy]

5.5 with one 5.7