Cleaning Anchors

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Cleaning Anchors

Postby brentc » Mon May 26, 2014 12:05 pm

When did it become the norm to secure yourself to a single bolt while cleaning an anchor? It seems I see this a lot and it is a really bad habit to develop. There are several ways to quickly clean anchors redundantly that require no more than two locking biners and an autoblock. In fact if you are on a top rope the locking biners are already on the anchor in most cases.
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Re: Cleaning Anchors

Postby chossmonkey » Wed May 28, 2014 11:41 am

I saw someone once who clipped into one bolt, pulled up some rope, put there foot on the rope so it wouldn't drop back down, then untied and threaded the anchor! :shock:

I always just use the two anchor draws to clean the anchor. Normally they are longer that standard unless I needed a bunch of long draws on the route.
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