Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

For all the motormouths who just need to spray.

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl

Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

Postby Andrew » Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:55 pm

Hey everyone.

I haven't been climbing in Clifton in quite a few years. I'm planning on going up for a couple days and wondering if anyone's been there in the past year or so?

When I used to go, you could go to Eagle's Bluff and just drive your car in and park it... setup tents and camp out free w/o troubles, then walk up the 10min path to the cliffs.

ANyone know if this is still good? Meanwhile, I need to check my guidebook for that area and see if the directions to get there are good.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

Postby Andrew » Fri Jul 16, 2010 11:24 am

...so no one's been to Clifton's Eagle Bluff in the past few years? Anyhow, from searching the forum and the net, it sounds like I can still camp at Eagle Bluff.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

Postby Fred » Sun Jul 18, 2010 5:45 pm

You should still be ok. That land is owned by climbers.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

Postby Andrew » Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:39 pm

Ya, I read that in the guidebook. Thanks for the info. Off to Clifton tomorrow! :)

Andrew

Fred wrote:You should still be ok. That land is owned by climbers.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

Postby Pierre » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:28 am

Hey Andrew,

I'm hoping to get down there in August. Let us know how your trip went.

Pierre
Pierre
 
Posts: 179
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:26 pm
Location: Moncton

Re: Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

Postby Andrew » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:36 pm

Pierre,

Trip went well.

Monday 19 JULY - Climbed around 3pm-5pm. Climbed Dirty Meat 5.10b 25' S(3)/R(2) lead. It started raining while we were on this route. It was hard so we took some time.

Tuesday 20 JULY - Climbed 11:30am-6pm as it was wet until then. Did 6 other routes. Practice Wall left and right. 5.7, 5.8, 5.10c, etc. Never got on any other walls. Darn rain.

From HWY-9, turn onto RTE-180. Drive a few miles in. You will see two metal gates on the left side. One of them goes to a huge pit. The next turn-in on the left after the 2nd gate is the first access point to the cliff trail. You can park a few cars and pitch a few tents there. If you go further up the road (not far) there are a few other pull-ins and spots for tents. I can't help you with those as I didn't use them. The trail is obvious. Once you start up it, there is a fork in the trail. If you go right, you get to the base of the cliff as you might assume and if you go straight, you end up on top of the cliff. I found the trad gear to be less than stellar and the rock to be more slippery/skatie than Welsford granite. The rock is more crystalline.

Right of the practice walls, there are many sport and mixed routes of 80-200 feet. Next trip I'll have to get in on some of these.

There are other climbing areas nearby - Fletcher's Bluff, Big Chick & Little chick(i think). There is a campground nearby called something POND.

Hope that helps.

It's a nice place and well worth going for a couple days.

Hope for no rain. This rock is slippery when wet.

PS: Most routes have rap rings at the top of some sort and a good # of them can be top roped from a walk-around.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Re: Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

Postby Dom » Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:21 am

Andrew wrote:PS: Most routes have rap rings at the top of some sort and a good # of them can be top roped from a walk-around.


The ''new'' Pierre doesn't toprope.

hehehe :wink:
So much rock, so little time
User avatar
Dom
 
Posts: 889
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:28 pm
Location: Oromocto West

Re: Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

Postby Pierre » Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:28 am

:twisted:

I only free solo now!
Pierre
 
Posts: 179
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 2:26 pm
Location: Moncton

Re: Clifton, Me (Eagle Bluff, etc.)

Postby Andrew » Fri Jul 23, 2010 4:04 pm

Are you Pierre Arsenault who I met through Mike Delaney?

I led a good # of routes. Wish I had more time and it was less hot, but good times.


Pierre wrote::twisted:

I only free solo now!
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis


Return to General

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 33 guests

cron